Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
paborden

New routes on Rainier?

Recommended Posts

So, here's a question - how much potential do you think there is for new routes on Rainier that aren't, like, silly little variations?

 

Had been talking with someone who mentioned a line to climber's left of Liberty Ridge, called maybe the Mowich Ice Face as he recalled, that featured crazy overhanging ice climbing - but I'm not sure this makes any sense to me.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Mowich face is climber's right of Ptarmigan Ridge - quite a ways from Liberty Ridge. Climber's left of Liberty Ridge would be the Willis Wall, I think.

 

My guess is that any new route would be a variation of an existing route, but I'm not an expert as I seem to climb the same few routes over and over, or at least fail on the same routes over and over.

Edited by DPS

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't think your gonna find any new routes up rainier. Unless you do something very dangerous...

 

its all been climbed, except directly under big ice cliffs, sure that would be a new route but a stupid route. Those things break off and would smash you to oblivion.

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
So, here's a question - how much potential do you think there is for new routes on Rainier that aren't, like, silly little variations?

 

Had been talking with someone who mentioned a line to climber's left of Liberty Ridge, called maybe the Mowich Ice Face as he recalled, that featured crazy overhanging ice climbing - but I'm not sure this makes any sense to me.

 

Climber's left of Lib Ridge would be Thermogenesis - FA was in the late 70s or early 80s. It is an avalanche chute and often swept by icefall from the ice cliffs at the top of the Willis Wall. The left side of Liberty Ridge does not appear to have been ascended but is more of a variation nad probably fairly avy prone as well. To climber's right is Liberty wall with what are two of probably the most dangerous routes on Rainier.

 

As others have said, not a lot of scope for new routes, more like variations, and a number of those in very hazardous positions.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

maybe we'll be lucky and live through some sorta major eruptive event and get to FA something on a monumentally reworked mountain? :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Willis Wall. And hope you survive. Step out of the boot pack on trade routes and call it a variation. Like ivan said hope for an eruption so it will blow its top off like St. Helens and it becomes a walkup.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think there's more potential for new ski lines. Probably mostly variations of other routes but may not have been done because they make more sense to ski then just to climb.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Rumor has it that there is a wi5 line that forms on the Mowich. Heard 2nd hand so...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think if one wants to make their mark on Rainier, the place to start would be a second ascent of the West ridge of Little Tahoma. Trying too hard to create a new route just creates a contrived variation.

 

I agree that there are several potential unskied lines. I wish I wasn't so damn old...and drunk.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I think if one wants to make their mark on Rainier, the place to start would be a second ascent of the West ridge of Little Tahoma.

 

I'll 2nd that motion

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

One could aid climb something heinous under a serac and name it after him/herself. It would likely go unrepeated for years! Fame , glory,beautiful women...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I don't think your gonna find any new routes up rainier. Unless you do something very dangerous...

 

its all been climbed, except directly under big ice cliffs, sure that would be a new route but a stupid route. Those things break off and would smash you to oblivion.

 

kinda like the kautz route :shock:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I think if one wants to make their mark on Rainier, the place to start would be a second ascent of the West ridge of Little Tahoma. Trying too hard to create a new route just creates a contrived variation.

 

I agree that there are several potential unskied lines. I wish I wasn't so damn old...and drunk.

agree or a FWA on some of the western routes, there pretty isolated

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Climber's left of Lib Ridge would be Thermogenesis - FA was in the late 70s or early 80s. It is an avalanche chute and often swept by icefall from the ice cliffs at the top of the Willis Wall. The left side of Liberty Ridge does not appear to have been ascended but is more of a variation nad probably fairly avy prone as well.

 

Climber's left (east) side of Liberty Ridge has been skied. See:

 

http://alpenglow.org/ski-history/topos/mt-rainier.html

 

I suggested the name "Cryogenesis" to the original ski party and it seems to have stuck. The ski line diverges from the Thermogenesis climbing route fairly low, so I think giving it an independent (but related) name is justifiable.

 

topo-rainier-liberty-east.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Lowell, thanks for your work on recording all of those descents, very cool to see them all in one spot!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×