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Peter Way

Petzl Ergo

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They're too radically curved in my expierence. I've just used them on a buddies woody a few times though, so I haven't used them very much. The nomic geometry is pretty good and climbs everything well. Only benefit I see to the ergos is they're slightly easier to hang onto for multiple fig 4's and 9's in a row. Fig 4's on nomics are just as easy to do, and the nomic doesn't feel awkward and unwieldy like the ergo.

 

Unless you're going to climb exclusively at the hall of justice I'd say avoid the ergos (and every time I've climbed there everyone is using either fusions or nomics)

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How much of a curve is too much? I remenber when the first bend axes became available. Climbers where looking at them like WHAT that's too radical man. Is the Ergo just the next step, or has it gone too far?

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I climbed on Ergos for several years. A great tool all together, but if I was buying tools now, I would get BD Fuel or Nomics. I have BD Fusion, OK tool, but get ice picks, as the picks supplied with the tool are worthless for ice.

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I had ergo just for dry tooling, great tool! awesome angle for overhang feature. also climb ice like a boss. But, I sold it, got a pair of nomic and could not be happier. now I own pair of quark for general mountaineering ice/snow everything and nomic for dry tooling and hard mix climb.

 

cheers

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bottom line, if you are looking for all around easy ice up to WI5, go for quark. super light weight.

 

if you are looking for all around hard mix/dry up to m7,8 ,or even 9, go with nomic.

 

If you are looking for drytooling tool up to M13(i guess..) ergo really make a difference on hard dry tooling routes.

but for me,... nomic is more than enough.

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