keenwesh Posted March 15, 2015 Share Posted March 15, 2015 Hey folks, I thought this might provide some interesting and useful discussion. I've found that when climbing grovely winter alpine terrain (think stuff that would be dirty 5.5 or 5.6 in summer) each pitch takes around 45 minutes to lead, and following is also time consuming, leading to the total time per pitch to take in the 1-2 hour range. I find that when I'm climbing this kind of terrain I'm not dawdling much, I get my turf sticks and commit to them, I'm not overprotecting anything. Yesterday I spent 5 hours climbing 4 pitches (each 200+ feet long) on the North Face of the Grand Teton and bailed from the base of the Guano Chimney, I would grade those pitches scrappy ~M4ish R/X, not hard at all, but sustained at the grade and falling is totally out of the question. In summer I would have soloed to that point in under half an hour. I guess my question is can anyone climb that kind of terrain in the half hour per pitch range? If so, what are they doing that I'm not? I'm thinking now that it's pretty much impossible to climb stuff like that much faster, and in order to climb routes like that in winter conditions you just have to commit to spending 15 hours on route (or however long it takes). If someone has evidence to suggest otherwise I'm all ears! This kind of terrain, if you happen to be a visual learner (that's Colin Simon's ass) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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