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WorldClimber1234

Mt Hood? Beta/Partners?

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Hey Guys,

 

Thinking about an April summit...conditions?

 

I hear the south face is pretty standard but more of a hike?

 

North face?

 

I am an an advanced ice climber with some intermediate mountain and backpacking experience...How about solos? A climb up the North and decent south? transport back?

 

Anyone up for partnering on such an adventure?

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Basically everything on Hood is soloable, if you're a competent alpine soloist. Being a strong ice climber will go a long way to ensuring you don't fall off the steps, but there's not that much steep ice to be had. The bigger issue with soloing is just having a good head for alpine - understanding where shit is likely to fall from, being able to move through shit-fall areas quickly and intelligently, avalanche assessment (don't even bother, this year), glacier/crevasse navigation, blind land navigation- visibility seems to be the catalyzing killer in most of the classic Hood tragedies... weather rolls in, people decide to hunker down rather than descend, and mysterious death ensues.

 

Physical fitness is absolutely critical.. fatigue ruins climbs, epicness or not.

 

So I'm saying it sounds like you probably don't want to solo at this point, based on what little I know about you. But if you're fit, there's no reason you couldn't slam out a North Face trip with a partner that knows the mountain. But dammit - you better be fit.

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wouldn't wholly discount avalanche. it has been laughable this year but doesn't mean nothing. nwac would have rolled up the carpet if the risk was zero-though hopefully my donation gets rolled to next year's banner snowfall (one can only hope).

 

What about leutholds or wyeast if one is ice climbing capable? not as 'hikey' at the southside but gives some more entertainment?

 

i will second being fit. but i suppose for a climb that should go without saying...degree is only speed, 2hr to the top? 3, 4, 5, 6? 1k vert rise/hr is a fair benchmark. that said if you've never climbed hood before, i really don't think there is anything wrong with going up pearly gates via normal southside and getting a feel for the mountain. Just, if you'd go back home (wherever) and feel like it was a waste of your time, then maybe don't opt for that? full disclosure-amount of times i've felt a route was a waste of my time: 0

 

p.s.: ben, will we ever climb together? kautz? Otherwise I think you're above my pay grade. :)

Edited by Water

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Yea, that was said in a particular context that should have been explained: one certainly cannot ever ignore avalanche concerns. But anyone with any avy sense at all can pretty much not even look at NWAC, this season.

 

Let's, Matt... but I'm about to sell my splitboard!

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I soloed Wy'east/steel cliff back in end of March. Cooper spur looks in good cond from summit.

 

If you want to traverse then park at timberline and get a buddy to drive you to north side trail head.

 

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