JasonG Posted March 13, 2015 Share Posted March 13, 2015 Trip: Eldorado - NW Couloir Date: 3/1/2015 Trip Report: This is a route that I've thought about almost as long as I've been climbing, but it is also one that's been difficult to find in good shape. I tried half-heartedly a few times in the fall many years ago but then it sort of slipped off the radar until this present winter (that wasn't). Suddenly, alpine conditions and weather were some of the best we've seen in years (and the worst ski conditions), and I had a hall pass and willing partners in Chuck and Tim. I guess it was time to slog back up to the Inspiration and see how conditions were. Tim, ever the fit young man, thought my plan of a two day climb was a bit banal for a climber of his ilk (I'm reading between the lines), and planned to meet us at the base of the east ridge of Eldo at 0630 Sunday morning. Chuck and I did the predictably grinding approach on Saturday and had plenty of time to shiver, melt snow, and pretend to sleep while our betamid flapped incessantly in the stiff NW wind. I think Tim had the right idea and sure enough he strolled into our camp only a few minutes late, and ready to get it done. Amazing! Thanks to Dave Burdick, the approach to this climb is quite a bit easier than described in Nelson, and after a bit of walking and a 60m rap we were on the glacier only a couple hundred yards from the base of the route. Maybe an hour from camp? Once on route, there wasn't much of the straightforward steep snow climbing you would think this route would offer in the winter. Though the climb is relatively short (~5p,300m?), steep bulges, aereated ice, and funky snow kept us on our toes (even if we couldn't feel them). Chuck was up for the challenge and led the harder sections with style, leaving the wallowing and funky snow to the choss dawgs. The end of difficulties is only about a rope length from the summit, and once we sorted gear, we made the quick walk to the top- maybe about 7 hours after leaving camp? The wind was rising and the sun had gone so we didn't linger, heading back to camp and the flask of Hunter without delay. So many of the other high peaks in the North Cascades are involved to get off of that it was a treat to stroll unroped to the bivy. All that remained was to finish the whiskey, pack up and trudge down. Impressively, Tim stayed out in front the whole way and we made it to the car about 10 hours after leaving camp that morning (14-15 hour day for Tim). After getting home, I went took out the trash and it was already lightly raining in the Skagit. For some reason that always makes me smile. It is a great route in a spectacular position; I can see why it made it in the Select guide. If you find a stick on the Inspiration this summer, you can thank Chuck: We ran into Jason4 and Krissy up there, and I couldn't resist taking a Japanese tourist photo of them: Jason and Krissy heading down after climbing the east ridge as a day trip: Gear Notes: two tools, helmet, screws, pickets, crampons Approach Notes: One 60m rap from Eldo-Dean's Spire col off two pins (lowest col from Eldo summit). There is supposedly two 30m raps, but we didn't see the second station (buried?). A short walk takes you to the base of the route. Rope up on the glacier, there be cracks/'schrunds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bronco Posted March 14, 2015 Share Posted March 14, 2015 Looks cold but fun, nice job! What's the story with the stick? Was Chuck hoping to have a camp fire? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtodorovich Posted March 14, 2015 Share Posted March 14, 2015 Absolutely gorgeous photos! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goran Posted March 14, 2015 Share Posted March 14, 2015 Incredible images. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonG Posted March 14, 2015 Author Share Posted March 14, 2015 What's the story with the stick? Was Chuck hoping to have a camp fire? Caveman ski pole. He carried it all the way to the rap! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sepultura Posted March 14, 2015 Share Posted March 14, 2015 Beautiful pics as usual Jason. Good job guys, it is a really fun, and seldom done route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason4 Posted March 15, 2015 Share Posted March 15, 2015 Great pics as always. Thanks for the tourist shot! Stephen and Braden told me about the funky runnel down the middle, it's interesting to see it in the pictures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Val Zephyr Posted March 15, 2015 Share Posted March 15, 2015 That looks like a fun route. Beautiful photos! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom_Sjolseth Posted March 15, 2015 Share Posted March 15, 2015 Great shots, Jason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danpeck Posted March 17, 2015 Share Posted March 17, 2015 I had the privilege of meeting and skiing with Chuck last weekend. I enjoyed his version of the story. Nice work and beautiful photos. Hope to follow your footsteps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alpine et Posted March 17, 2015 Share Posted March 17, 2015 Gotta second or third the great photos sentiment - thanks for delivering the stoke to get out to this zone again... hitting refresh on weather at work now... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
climbaround Posted March 18, 2015 Share Posted March 18, 2015 Wow - fantastic pics!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downey Posted March 25, 2015 Share Posted March 25, 2015 nice work! .. and sweet pictures! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kukuzka1 Posted March 27, 2015 Share Posted March 27, 2015 WOULD OF BEEN GOOD WINTER TO GET FWA ON TFT, IM ASSUMING NOBODY BAGGED IT? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted March 27, 2015 Share Posted March 27, 2015 I know some folks had been considering it, looking for partners and what not, but I don't think it got climbed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kukuzka1 Posted March 27, 2015 Share Posted March 27, 2015 humm, ok gracias Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.