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[TR] Whitechuck - Standard 2/21/2015

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Trip: Whitechuck - Standard


Date: 2/21/2015


Trip Report:

What a fun scramble! Conditions are likely still quite good on Whitechuck, though this report is from a couple weekends ago. Not surprisingly you can drive to over 4K, which is not quite to the start of the summer climber's trail. The route itself is exposed, but scenic and not very long, making for a perfect winter day trip. Clouds added to the drama and feeling of traversing over the abyss, but we still had excellent views for much of the day. We didn't bring a rope and didn't necessarily feel the need for one, but you certainly don't want to fall!


Thanks to Kit and Trent for another excellent adventure in the North Cascades!


































Gear Notes:

Steel crampons, axe, second tool, helmet.


Approach Notes:

Don't follow the Beckey description for driving directions. You want to drive 2435 until you can't go any farther.

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Thanks! That's Sloan in the last photo, will try and add some captions in the next few days.

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The photos are great, especially the b/w one showing the fluting, love it. Thanks for posting!

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Went up there today, not much snow left. Just a bunch of slush and snice and rock passages. Didn't go very far up, snow just fell apart when you touched it.



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Went up there march 4 for the standard route. snow conditions weren't great but not bad. felt like we couldn't totally depend on the snow to hold us as there was about 4-8 inches over rock or ice. when over ice it was good (with an ice tool) but not so great when over rock. we didn't summit as we moved too far left and ended up to the left side of the false summit with no way around it. a fun day of climbing but now i'll have to go back to get the summit.

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You were probably at the right spot. You have to find the narrow slot that will spit you on the west side of the summit ridge. When I was standing on the nub before the false summit I thought for sure that we were too high and left. You have to drop into the notch and wiggle your way west and around the false summit. It looks improbable from above, but works great.

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