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[TR] Dragontail Peak - Gerber-Sink 3/2/2015

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Trip: Dragontail Peak - Gerber-Sink


Date: 3/2/2015


Trip Report:

On Monday my partner and I had a fantastic day of climbing the Gerber-Sink on Dragontail Peak. Like all winter climbing, conditions mean everything and currently conditions are excellent(!).


We left the car at 3am and were roped up by 9am at the initial rock band. Lots of ice/neve filled runnels and short mixed chokes separated by sections of snow climbing made for great simul-climbing most of the way. We took 6hrs on route.


Eric leading the final pitch of the Gerber-Sink



Lots of great alpine ice currently (and a dusting of snow)



Gear Notes:

We took single rack BD .3-2, a Metolius blue TCU, 3 pins, 3 ice screws (one 10cm, two 13cm), and several small nuts. Small cams very useful (perhaps bring a purple TCU also), in current conditions another ice screw would have been nice on the longer simul-climbing pitches.



Approach Notes:

Road to summer TH is currently 1/2 dirt 1/2 snow. We brought skis with Silverettas for the road and found them useful despite having to carry them a couple miles. Trail is very packed out making for easy hiking.

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Quick conditions note from ascent on 3/8:


- Still awesome climbing. Kind of like climbing the ice pitches between the 1st and 2nd Couloirs on the TC's over and over.


- Last pitch to gain the 3rd Couloir is way melted out compared to the OP's photo. Blebs of ice, moss sticks (bomber) and a few hooks get you up that last 30'. A Sceptre was nice to have for frozen moss pro.


- Rock gear/anchors are there but take a sharp eye and some poking around. Had three stubbies and could've used one or two more. We ended up cleaning a fair bit of snow, dirt and micro choss out of poor looking cracks and ended up with some good gear placements.


- Recent snow/spindrift on upper snowfield makes for some trailbreaking but pretty trivial overall.





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As of 3/13 Gerber-Sink is still in excellent condition: solid neve and plentiful alpine ice. Good bootpack all the way to Colchuck Lake and a casual walk down Asgard Pass.

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