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powderhound

[TR] Stiens Pillar - SW Face 2/15/2015

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Trip: Stiens Pillar - SW Face

 

Date: 2/15/2015

 

Trip Report:

Finally got back on this rig. Ivan and I bailed from the top of the third pitch when howling snow/sleet/hail storm rolled in. Ivan and I have been climbing a good bit together with consistent success, so we went for weekend six in a row. Off bout 6am from PDX, it was nothing but smiles for the next two days. We choose wisely, not another climber all weekend! Glad we didn't brave the Smith crowds, we would have not fared well. The weekend went off without a hitch. Heck we even got a personal escort out to the trailhead by the crook county sheriff saturday night after summiting the sw face. Good ole boy Geoff was sure happy the sheriff was packing when he was told about the wolfs and cougars. Did some cragging sunday out there and drove back to our ladies.

 

 

 

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Getting started on the first pitch.

 

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Base of the money part!

 

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If this pitch were at smith it would get climbed as much as that stupid karate crack. Right up there with some of the 5 Star 5.10 finger cracks out at Trout Creek.

 

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Clipping nice bolts and getting ready for the heady part.

 

 

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So this pitch was rebolted, but also retrobolted. The retrobolts have been pulled. There is a 25 foot section that has some C2+ gear.

 

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Geoff taking us up through the third pitch.

 

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Summit Sunset

 

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First pitch of Money, Sexy, Whiskey or is it Sexy Whiskey Money?

We did a nice community service and let loose the tombstone on the second pitch.

 

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Top Out! Enjoying the sun!

 

A note about the SW Face: This is the best multipitch free climb to a significant tower summit in Oregon that I have done (not saying much). However, I put this right up there with climbing the Honeymoon Chimney in the Castle Valley, my all time fav tower route. This route deserves to see more traffic.

 

Gear Notes:

Double to #1 Camelot. Single 2&3. Extra red and gray alien. Small wires for the 2nd pitch. Screamers are nice to have at a couple pieces.

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our first attempt in the bye-gone dayes of yore :)

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1019859

 

our 2nd attempt to do it right damn near killed me brudder :noway:

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1065697

 

a curious collection of stream of consciousness:

- sea-gull shit all over the red devil after stashing it at the safeway

- the calmest weather i've seen at steins in a baker's half-dozen what-have-yous

- sad sight of ole'boy geoff snoozing n' set to settle into the flaming fire

- glorious sunset, venus glowing and vivid - beers and butts on the summit amidst the alpine rose

- a car camp meal to remember - fresh roast duck, just remember to mind the bird shot for the sake of fuck!

- the burgundy bitch-left at home, my alcoholism clearly tipped over and heading for the final heartache stage

- a broken neck only half-healed and a wicked wrong cough from all this sordid living of late

- "fuck you and your hampton house, i fucked your hampton spouse, came in her hampton mouth, then i hampton'ed out"

- t-shirts in february, jeebus christ in silk jammies :)

 

to the death of fun :brew:

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Today is Tyler Adams birthday. Tyler took me to stiens for the first time. Later that weekend we also climbed the twin pillars for maybe the third or fourth ascent. I always think of him when I am there. Wish he had been there last weekend to share the times. Miss you my brother

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