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Buckaroo

What Are Your Favorite and/or Best Climbs?

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Name 3 to 5 climbs (or more) in each category that are your favorite or that you think are the best. Can be any discipline from cragging to 8000m peaks.

 

1) Name 3 to 10 (or more) climbs that you have climbed.

 

2) Name 3 to 10 (or more) climbs that you could potentially climb but have not yet done so. Or that you could climb if you improved your skills.

 

3) Name 3 to 10 climbs that you admire but will probably never climb for whatever reason. (This category may not apply to the strongest climbers)

Please list specific climbs and not just descriptions like "anything over 5.12"

 

Optional Category (Per Sepultura)

4)Climbs you have epic'd, failed on one or more times, and/or don't recommend.

 

I'll start.

 

1) Have climbed,

NE Buttress of Slesse

Salathe on ElCap

Index Traverse solo

Complete North Ridge of Stuart

Davis Holland- Lovin Arms

 

2) Capable of but have not climbed.

Japanese Route on Alberta (or N.E. Ridge)

The Cassin on Denali (If I win the Lotto)

The Liongrat on the Matterhorn

Sunset Ridge on Rainier in winter.

Lotus Flower Tower, SE face.

 

3) Admire but will never climb.

North Face of North Twin

Baintha Brakk (The Ogre) by any route.

Latok 1, North Ridge

Hummingbird Ridge, Mt. Logan

Moonflower Buttress, Mt. Hunter.

 

4)Climbs you have epic'd, failed on one or more times, and/or don't recommend.

Sunset Ridge on Rainier in Winter (4x DNS), longest approach on Rainier and rarely in condition, bad weather

Japanese Route, Alberta. (4x DNS)(choss fest, bad weather)

 

 

 

 

 

copy and paste

 

1) Have climbed.

 

 

2) Capable of, or could if skills were improved, but have not climbed.

 

 

3) Admire but will never climb.

 

 

 

 

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This thread inspired me to revamp an old profile on my website, thanks!

 

1) Have climbed.

 

Zodiac

Temple

S.Pickets traverse

Mongo

Springbok

 

 

 

 

2) Capable of but have not climbed.

Real Big Drip

Cryophobia

Rocketman

Stanley Headwall

big Patagonia tower

 

 

3) Admire but will never climb.

Himalaya giant Ogre, Nanga, etc

Helmekin

Infinite Bliss

 

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1) Have climbed. (nothing big in the grand scheme of things but big for me)

polar circus

n rib slesse

ne buttres slesse

beckey chouinard howser

ham n eggs mooses tooth

 

 

 

2) Capable of but have not climbed.

cassin ridge denali

university wall squamish

mt Huntington

moonlight buttress zion

zodiac

 

3) Admire but will never climb.

5.12

M6

WI6

anything scary (cassin ridge being one of them)

 

Edited by genepires

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1) Have climbed.

 

Mt. Frances sw ridge

 

Bacon and Eggs, mini mini moonflower

 

Mt. Hood north face right gully

 

Blownout beacon rock and other 5.10 trad

 

 

2) Capable of but have not climbed.

 

Denali

 

Mt. Huntington

 

Mooses Tooth

 

Yosemite big walls

 

 

3) Admire but will never climb

 

Hunter's North buttress

 

Himalayas

 

Patagonia

 

Antartica

 

5.12

 

 

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New year, new goals; good idea for a thread to get one thinking!

 

1) Favorites I have climbed:

- Beckey-Chouinard on S. Howesr

- Sunset Strip on the Chief

- Rebel Yell on Chianti

- Pigeon Spire WR

 

2) Capable of, but have not climbed and want to:

- Lotus Flower Tower

- Nose/Salathe/El Cap or anything in the valley (I really need to get myself there...)

- Index Traverse

- Slesse NEB

- Sunshine Crack on Snowpatch

 

3) Admire but will never climb.

- >5.12

- Willis Wall

- the Bulger list

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1) Have climbed

Triple Direct

Ancient Gallery (obscure Zion wall with perfect splitters)

South Guardian Angel (best scramble ever)

SE Buttress - Cathedral Peak (perfect mellow rock route)

Fantasia- The Oracle (best desert adventure climb)

 

 

 

2) Capable of but have not climbed.

Cottontail Tower (capable in my mind, reality may dictate otherwise)

Dome Peak

Sheriffs Badge

Labor Day Wall - Shuksan

Dairyland - Nesakwatch Spires

 

 

3) Admire but will never climb.

True Grade VI nailup in Zion (to scary)

Scott Route on Asgard (to expensive)

Swiss Peak - NE Buttress (what a cool line)

Ragni Route on Cerro Torre (what features)

Japanese Gardens (to weak)

 

 

 

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1) Have climbed.

Exum Direct (car-car first trad lead)

Complete North Ridge on Stuart

Jeff Park (winter solo)

North Sister (winter, stormy weather)

Tenaya-Matthes-Cathedral solo linkup

 

2) Capable of but have not climbed.

Torment-Forbidden Traverse

N Butt on Terror

Beckey Chouinard on S. Howser

Regular NW Face on Half Dome

Evolution Traverse

 

3)**Want to climb but need more experience or to climb harder.**

Polar Circus

North Face of Mt. Alberta

Ragni Route on Torre

Super Canaleta on Fitz Roy

Slovak Direct on Denali (why not set big goals?!)

 

4) Admire but will never climb.

5.14 (I only climb 5.11 right now, but I'm tryingg not tto set limits)

A4/5 scare fests (I'm fine with C2)

double corniced ridges (hopefully, but you never know where you might find yourself :D )

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This thread inspired me to revamp an old profile on my website, thanks!

 

1) Have climbed.

 

Zodiac

Temple

S.Pickets traverse

Mongo

Springbok

 

 

 

 

2) Capable of but have not climbed.

Real Big Drip

Cryophobia

Rocketman

Stanley Headwall

big Patagonia tower

 

 

3) Admire but will never climb.

Himalaya giant Ogre, Nanga, etc

Helmekin

Infinite Bliss

 

Looks like you've got ice on your mind. Wish I could join you, just got a knee replacement so maybe next year.

 

Infinite Bliss? Why is that on "never climb"?

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1) Have climbed.

Exum Direct (car-car first trad lead)

Complete North Ridge on Stuart

Jeff Park (winter solo)

North Sister (winter, stormy weather)

Tenaya-Matthes-Cathedral solo linkup

 

2) Capable of but have not climbed.

Torment-Forbidden Traverse

N Butt on Terror

Beckey Chouinard on S. Howser

Regular NW Face on Half Dome

Evolution Traverse

 

3)**Want to climb but need more experience or to climb harder.**

Polar Circus

North Face of Mt. Alberta

Ragni Route on Torre

Super Canaleta on Fitz Roy

Slovak Direct on Denali (why not set big goals?!)

 

4) Admire but will never climb.

5.14 (I only climb 5.11 right now, but I'm tryingg not tto set limits)

A4/5 scare fests (I'm fine with C2)

double corniced ridges (hopefully, but you never know where you might find yourself :D )

 

Torment Forbidden, Becky Chouinard, and Polar Circus are all on my list.

 

The N face on Alberta is probably going to be in shape this year (it rarely is) because of the low snow, that is if Canada has been the same as here. It will go for like 5 year runs without being climbed. Colin Haley just did the NE Buttress (facebook) there might be some beta there.

 

I talked to Andy DeKlerk after he climbed it to try to get some beta. About all he said was, "the headwall is 12 pitches of 5.10".

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1) Have climbed. (nothing big in the grand scheme of things but big for me)

 

 

It's all relative, couple of those are big in my book and I haven't done them.

 

I think we get thrown off by the pro climbers. I think you can get just as "out there" on your own level.

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Going to the Bugs in August if everything works out... B-C is my #1 objective but I'm not sure if my partner and I will be fast enough to tackle it. We did Backbone/D-tail in 19 hours car-car last August. I know I can move fast on moderate terrain and snow, and I know he can climb all pitches no problem, just not sure if we can keep up with each other on our non-strengths and avoid taking the dreaded bivy gear.

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Also, as my list #3 indicates, I need more ice/mixed/alpine experience. I have a week off in late March and would just like to put it out there in case anyone needs a partner or would be willing to provide some mentorship in exchange for beer and a belay slave.

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If you're a 5.11 climber you shouldn't have any trouble with Polar Circus, strength wise. Though in PNW it's hard to get enough mileage on the ice to develop technique, especially this year.

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Always nice to have a distraction from the lack of snow this year

 

1) Favorites I have climbed:

- Full Exum Ridge- Teton

- Wolf's Head

- NE Buttress- Bugaboo Spire

- Shuksan- Fisher Chimneys

- Ancient Art- Stolen Chimney

 

2) Capable of, but have not climbed and want to:

- Snowpatch Route on Snowpatch Spire

- Triple Couloirs on Dragontail

- Backbone Ridge on Dragontail

- Full North Ridge of Stuart

- South Ridge of Gimli

- Mox Peaks

 

3) Admire but will never climb.

- Beckey-Chouinard on S. Howser (Admire and I will eventually climb)

- Everest (Crowds and I like my toes)

- Winter Dance

- Any route on El Cap (who knows, maybe someday)

- Mooses tooth

Edited by Devin27

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1. Have Climbed:

Megaladon Ridge FA, Mt Goode

Thin Red Line Free, Liberty Bell

Texas Hold Em to Lone Star, Black Velvet Wall

Southern Pickets to Luna Pk Enchainment

Dragons of Eden Free, Dragontail

 

Runner Ups: Silk Road, Calaveras Dome - Wall of the Worlds, Calaveras Dome - Rostrum North Face - Let it Burn, CBR - East Face, Main Gunsight

 

2. Capable of but have not climbed (the goals):

Spicy Red Beans and Rice Free, North Howser Tower

The Tiger, M&M Wall

Moonlight Buttress Free

Regular Route Free, Half Dome

Freerider, El Capitan

 

3. Admire but will never climb:

(This category just doesn't fit into my mindset. With focused training I think most any objective in the world could be attempted, and possibly sent. Nonetheless, big time stuff I will likely never attempt.)

Zodiac Wall Free, El Capitan

SW Ridge Free, Cerro Torre

Eternal Flame Free, Trango Tower

Shining Wall of Gasherbraum

Sharkfin Route, Meru

 

P.S. Most of you guys could climb 5.12 if you dedicated yourselves to it. If you haven't, check out: Rock Climbers Training Manual

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1) Have climbed Favorites (hard to list only 3 to 5).

Epinepherine (Red Rocks)

West Face Variation of Monkey Face (Smith)

Finger of Fate (Sawtooths)

Slick Rock regular route pre-bolted belays (ID)

Other Side of the Tracks (Spring Mt. WA)

Outer Space (Leavenworth, WA)

Dreamer, Green Giant Buttress (WA)

Silent Running with bonus pitch (3 o'clock rock)

 

2) Capable of or would be if skills were improved, but have not climbed.

Morgul Vale (Wolf Rock)

Elephants Perch (something under 5.11)

Triassic Sands (Redrocks)

Frigid Air Buttress (Redrocks)

Mt. Wilson (Redrocks)

 

3) Admire but will never climb.

anything hard

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1) Favorites I have climbed:

- NE Buttress of Slesse

- Stuart Glacier Coulior on Stuart

- Curtis Ridge on Rainier

- Complete Exum on Teton

- East Buttress of Whitney

 

 

2) Capable of, but have not climbed and want to:

- Complete North Ridge of Stuart

- North Face of Shuksan

- North Face of Mt. Robson

- Liberty crack on Liberty Bell

- RNF of Half Dome

 

3) Admire but will never climb.

- Lotus Flower Tower

- Hummingbird Ridge on Mt. Logan

- Annapurna

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These are the best routes I've done in their respective disciplines

Harvard Route

Winter Dance (it's not as hard as people think it is, get on it and have your mind blown)

Wisdom/Jules Vern/Lene's Dream/Naked Edge linkup (Still gotta go back and lead The Wisdom and Jules Vern, but even on TR they're both phenomenal)

 

Can alpine rock be it's own category? Why not...

Myopia on The Elephants Perch is probably the most enjoyable 5.10 I've ever done.

 

Want to/will try to climb

Reality Face

Cassin

Denali Diamond

Scary things in the Canadian Rockies

 

Leaving #3 blank.

 

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1. Have Climbed:

**The Nose, El Cap;

**Half Dome RNWF;

**Serenity/Sons;

**Beckey/Chouinard, S. Howser;

**Hyperspace, SCW;

 

 

2. Capable of but have not climbed (the goals):

 

**the NIAD in under 15 hours;

**the NIAD in under 12 hours;

**the NIAD in under 10 hours;

**Rostrum N. Face;

**Edge of Space, SCW;

**Thin Red Line, mostly free ;)

**Grand Wall;

**High Plains Drifter, Squamish;

 

 

3. Admire but will never climb:

**All along the watchtower, N. Howser;

**Astroman, Washington Column;

**The Nose, El Cap/ RNWF Half Dome under 24 hour link up;

**That Colchuck Reality Pitch and route, CBR;

**Freeway, Squamish

Edited by telemarker

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Always nice to have a distraction from the lack of snow this year

 

 

2) Capable of, but have not climbed and want to:

 

- Backbone Ridge on Dragontail

- Full North Ridge of Stuart

 

 

3) Admire but will never climb.

- Beckey-Chouinard on S. Howser (Admire and I will eventually climb)

 

- Any route on El Cap (who knows, maybe someday)

 

The East Buttress of El Cap has one move of 5.10, the rest is 5.9 or less. If you can do these others you can do that one. Plus it's right next to the descent and for me it was 5 stars.

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3. Admire but will never climb:

**All along the watchtower, N. Howser;

**Astroman, Washington Column;

**The Nose, El Cap/ RNWF Half Dome under 24 hour link up;

**That Colchuck Reality Pitch and route, CBR;

**Freeway, Squamish

 

You could do all those goals telemarker (except maybe free the Tempest Roof). Don't cut your self short man!

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Going to the Bugs in August if everything works out... B-C is my #1 objective but I'm not sure if my partner and I will be fast enough to tackle it. We did Backbone/D-tail in 19 hours car-car last August. I know I can move fast on moderate terrain and snow, and I know he can climb all pitches no problem, just not sure if we can keep up with each other on our non-strengths and avoid taking the dreaded bivy gear.

 

I think the strategy is to camp at the base of the descent and just shiver bivy if you don't make it or can't find the way in the dark.

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I think the best routes I've done are:

 

-Girth Pillar on Stuart (via Ice Cliff glacier)

-Snow Creek Wall (in winter / ice conditions)

-Sea of Vapors (the pinnacle of my relatively short and unimpressive ice career)

-Tricks of the Trade, Zion

-Grand Wall, Squamish

 

Want to Climb:

 

-Long alpine granite 5.10 / 5.11 in Cham

-Long alpine limestone 5.10 / 5.11 in the Dolomites

- More 5.10 /5.11 in Squamish and Zion

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