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wayne

[TR] Weeping Pillar, and Hydrophobia - 1/15/2015

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Trip: Weeping Pillar, and Hydrophobia -

 

Date: 1/15/2015

 

Trip Report:

Did a couple of crazy routes In the Canadian Rockies this week. Weeping Pillar is on the Upper Weeping Wall. One has to climb a route on the Lower Weeping Wall to access the Upper. We did Sniveling Gully to conserve strength.

Hydrophobia is an insane, fun 3 pitch route in a hard-to-get to place in the Ghost.

Also did Twisted, and Curtain Call.

Conditions are great right now. Hasnt snowed in a couple of weeks, and most things are fat. Temps are perfect right now = around freezing. More on https://waynewallace.wordpress.com/2015/01/17/weeping-pillar-and-hydrophobia/

 

P1130642.JPGP1130601.jpgP1130601.jpg

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thanks for the real time reporting! Hydrophobia looks just as you describe, like something out of a comic book. Amazing.

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Yeah, you climbed Teardrop.

Yes, sounds more like the correct name. As far as I remember you have to do Central Pillar on Lower Wall to call it Weeping Pillar.

Daggers are an issue on that wall and using these caves for belays is a good strategy. I went up 2 times (Teardrop and Pillar) and both times I returned from climbing pretty banged up. Second time, our rope cut a snow slab at the top and falling wet snow almost took my head off. It knocked me upside down, and my head and neck were sore for a couple of weeks.

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Wayne says,

""I have enjoyed doing the opposite of the “Smash and Grab” trips. Taking 2 week trips allows me to rest between body destroying leads. Particularly since I just had orthoscopic repairs done on my knee a few weeks ago. “Relax and Acquire” is nice but has led to another trend that I don’t enjoy.

 

I have found it difficult to go out on these trips with a dedicated partner. It is probably a combination of the various issues such as: Who has that kind of time available? I have a particular agenda/ability. I am a jerk?, etc. I have adjusted to this trend though by lining up “play dates” with various partners.""

 

Been there done that. As you get older you slow down from hyper speed a little bit. Actually I think it's easier to enjoy a climb if you climb it slow enough to actually remember who led what pitch. All you have to do is find partners at the same speed. Whatever it ends up being it's better to keep climbing at whatever speed than it is to stop climbing all together.

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