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[TR] Five days in Bozeman - Several 12/15/2014


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Trip: Five days in Bozeman - Several


Date: 12/15/2014


Trip Report:

This trip got planned during a climbing trip to Woodfords Canyon over Josh’s birthday this spring. We agreed on dates for this trip and for another trip to Valdez in February.


Our plan was to drive out from Sacramento leaving early the 13th. My wife ended up in the hospital for the previous week, so Josh and Becky left that morning. Even though my wife and the nurses said I should leave; I just couldn’t with my wife still in the hospital. She was released Saturday afternoon and I ended up flying up to Bozeman on Monday the 15th getting there around midnight.


The first day I was there (Tuesday the 16th) we just went to Genesis I (WI3-WI5, 20m) . It was my first ice of the season and Josh had no problems throwing the lead to me. I climbed the left side at WI3 as I placed a few too many screws trying to get my confidence back. After a few laps we moved the rope to the right to top rope steeper terrain (WI4) After several more laps we moved to the far right side and top roped yet another 3-4 laps. When we were done we went back to the hotel, cleaned up, and then headed to the Montana Brewing Company for some beers and pizza.



My first climb of the year on the far left.




The views from the base of Genesis I.




A party climbing on the steeper section of G1




She told me I couldn't beat her to the top, so I stopped and took a few pictures.




Wednesday Becky flew back home and me and Josh got a later start. We hiked up to Genesis II (WI3+, 50m) where Josh led the right side as another group was on the left. While Josh was leading two guys from Oregon showed up. We chatted for a while before I headed up. They decided to start up the left side once the first group came down. Once we got down we hiked over to The Hangover (WI3, 50m) where three guys were making a photo shoot out of it. We didn’t expect them to take as long as they did so we waited to jump on it. Once they were down I lead up the easier lower section placing few screws, as I was feeling more comfortable. At the top there is a steeper section that I backed off of and went around to the right, as it was less steep. Josh followed without incident and we rapped down and headed over to Upper Green Sleeves Left & Right (WI3, 60m) . Josh lead the left one and I lead the right one. Both had tricky dirt/root climbing towards the top that both of us found interesting on lead. We called it a day and went for burgers at Montana Ale works.


Josh waiting for The Hangover to open up. Sorry, no other pictures today.




Day three we planned on doing Mummy Cooler II. We stopped in the Amphitheater on our way up and Josh lead Thin Chance (WI3, 15m) and I took Fat Chance (WI3-, 15M). We got up to Mummy II (WI3+, 45m) with no one around, what an amazing setting! Josh offered me the lead as he knew it was one of the climbs I wanted to do but I passed, as it was his turn. He took one of the steeper lines up the center for a great lead and climb. We took a break for lunch and were looking at The Scepter (WI5, 30m). The top was pretty steep, but hacked out and the bottom looked fun and challenging. After him hawing around about it Josh said “if you don’t lead it, I will” that’s all it took for me to tie in and start up. Looking at it from underneath was completely different than looking at it from a ways back. Just under half way up there was a bulge that proved much harder than it looked. Being several feet above my last screw it was pretty intimidating. After clearing the bulge there was a good rest before the steeper upper section. I’d have to say it was one of my top three hardest leads ever, but glad I did it. Once we finished it Josh decided he wanted to lead it and agreed that it was quite a move on lead. We headed out and went to one of the best pizza places I’ve been to, Audrey’s. After pizza we went to Lockhorn Cider House recommended by a Nick in Valdez, awesome place with great cider!


Josh with The Scepter on the left and Mummy Cooler II on the right.



The bottom part of The Scepter. The hard move was going from standing on the mushroom on the far right to the one above it.



Friday we headed up to Unnamed Wall with intentions of getting on The Thrill is Gone (M4, WI4, 35m). It looked much harder than the M4 rating and we didn’t think it protected as well as it said, so we passed. There was a solo climber on The Fat One (WI3, 45m) so we continued on to The Elevator Shaft (WI3+, 75m). Josh lead it as I was still feeling the Cider House from the night before. The center section was pretty thin with visible water running behind it, making for a more interesting lead than it looked like. After following and rapping we pulled the rope and I lead it. We then headed over to The Fat One. I got the lead and I took the steepest line that was near vertical. While putting the second screw in, my feet blew and I almost lost it but held on to my tools. It felt so good getting that screw in and clipped! I finished the route without incident. With nothing else in the area we were at a loss for what to do. After some discussion we decided to go to Paradise Falls. We hiked down and drove to the other parking lot. We were expecting a flat easy hike, but were surprised that it wasn’t flat. After hiking up we found that the climb wasn’t in enough for our liking so we headed back to Genesis I to get some laps in.


Elevator Shaft



For the last day we decided to hike in to Dribbles (WI4, 155m) as we were hoping doing the long approach would help us avoid the crowds on the weekend. It seemed to work as there was just only party at the base when we showed up and they were the only ones we seen while we were there. Josh gave me the first lead as this is where him and Becky went the first day they were here and the fest was going on and they top roped the first pitch. For some reason I decided to break my rule and follow up behind the other party. Luckily I didn’t get hit by anything, but it sure made me question why I decided to follow up behind them. Josh chose an impressive and sustained line for the second pitch. After Dribbles we walked back down the trail and up to the Winter Dance area where I lead Over Easy (WI3, 40m) and Curtains (WI4, 25m).


Josh on the way out.



We headed home the following day running into a pretty bad snow storm driving down to West Yellowstone and getting back to Sacramento around 8:00pm. Thanks again to my wonderful wife Ginny for letting me gallivant around the country chasing my obsession, especially while she wasn’t doing so great.



Approach Notes:

Alaska Air & Josh's 4Runner

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