Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber


      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
Mike Lewis

[TR] Mount Rainier - Disappointment Cleaver 7/13/2010

Recommended Posts

Trip: Mount Rainier - Disappointment Cleaver


Date: 7/13/2010


Trip Report:

Team Members: Bill Rogers, Adam Anderson, Josh and Michael Lewis




We wanted to summit via the Ingraham Direct route, but Park Rangers and RMI discourage using this route, as large crevasses have begun to form. An aluminum ladder that was spanning a 10' wide crevasse was taken down earlier in the week as the crevasse opened up further causing the ladder to lose purchase. As a result the route was out of season.




[img:left; width:100px]http://www.summitpost.org/images/small/639700.jpg[/img] [img:center; width:100px]http://www.summitpost.org/images/small/639685.jpg[/img][img:center; width:100px]http://www.summitpost.org/images/small/639709.jpg[/img][img:right; width:100px]http://www.summitpost.org/images/small/639703.jpg[/img]


From Camp Muir (10,080') we went to Ingraham Flats (11,200') to sleep. An unusually wet spring and warm summertime temperatures significantly weakened the rock en route to Ingraham Flats. Wet and thawing layers of tephra loosened layers of rock causing rock-fall throughout the day below Gibralter Rock, Cowlitz Cleaver and Disappointment Cleaver. We tried to avoid these aspects when they were receiving direct sunlight. The beginning of the route is very strait-forward. There are a couple fixed lines by RMI to help clients deal with the rock exposure on the Disappointment Cleaver at the start. Once on top the cleaver, at about 12,270', the climber's boot path meanders over to the Ingraham glacier as it connects with the Emmons to form the summit ice cap. There are several crevasses that must be crossed or bypassed. Only a couple of them were particularly impressive. Some were beginning to merge right on the climber's trail, especially around 13,000' so we took care to avoid possibly collapsing snow-bridges. The path accessed the crater rim from the SSE.


[img:left; width:150px]http://www.summitpost.org/images/medium/639704.jpg[/img] [img:right; width:150px]http://www.summitpost.org/images/medium/639707.jpg[/img]


Once on the summit crater, there was an obvious boot-path that went to the North of the USGS marker. You must search the summit crater for the Register as it is not at the highest point, but under a large rock along the rim. I could not find it. We descended via the same route, making slight adjustments as conditions changed (navigating opening crevasses, avoiding extremely wet snow or rock-fall). I'm glad to have made this life-long goal after a year of training with friends gimpilator, colin woods and Eastking.




Gear Notes:

ice axes, crampons, harnesses, 60m dryrope, prussics, snow anchors and slings


Approach Notes:

Good weather but forecast for a windy day by day 3 so we made it a quick 2 days instead. Snow was excellent.

Edited by Mike Lewis

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this