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first ascent [TR] mount garfield west peak - preiss route 7/22/1999

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Trip: mount garfield west peak - preiss route


Date: 7/22/1999


Trip Report:

As I have never done an official trip report on this climb, I will now. In mid-July 1999 I was under the west peak of mt Garfield, in the woods trying to find the beginning of the rock wall. After traversing in from the trees, left of the rock wall, I gained the large ledge with a weak waterfall on its left side and an obvious stair stepped rock “gully” next to the waterfall. I then made a few difficult, (for me) un-roped moves just below and right of the obvious stair stepped rock. After approx. 60-80ft of climbing the easier “stairs”, I set up my first belay. The belay was in the first crack I came too, on the right side of the “staircase”. After rappelling and retrieving my pack I re-climbed the pitch. At the belay and staying on self-belay I exited the stairs, moving out right slightly to some fun 5.8-9 slabby rock with a few good cracks/pockets to add protection. After A full pitch I reached a shelf with a couple small pools of water on it. After retrieving my pack I went up, angling left, climbing easier rock un-roped until I reached the base of the great slabs. I then climbed sub-par 3rd-4th class rock un-roped, which seemed like awhile (6-700 feet?), eventually aiming for a small, thick stubby tree on the upper right side of the face. From here I self-belayed out of the tree via a few fun moves and went on to the next small tree patch. After retrieving my pack I decided to bivi here. It was only around 630-7pm but I felt like resting some. The tree patch had a few small trees and sandy ground but was tilted and not very comfortable. Looking back I should have went one more pitch and got to the large shelf below the upper headwall. But at the time I didn’t think of it and I can’t remember if I could even see it from where I was. I didn’t bring a stove so I ate my cold sandwich and tried to sleep. I awoke at 4am and started climbing at 430. Still un-roped, I climbed the hard to protect slabby rock. I reached the large ledge in less than a rope length. When on the large shelf below the headwall, I traversed it to its left side and self-belayed a fun (5.7) blocky corner. This pitch ended at a small sandy notch. After retrieving my pack I continued self- belayed up from the notch via a few thin moves (5.9+) with a solid thin crack for protection. After these few moves I reached easier rock on the rib. I continued up easy rock without the rope on until I reached what looked like my last obstacle, a rock wall of maybe 60-80 feet. I tried it with the rope in my pack but I felt it was little hard at the time, and I didn’t want to do something stupid, so I broke out the rope again. It seemed it was in the 5.8/9ish range with good protection. And then was finished. I walked A little down and left thru a small gap in the trees to the gentle northern slopes, then walked right 40-50 feet and climbed the back side of the final 30 foot summit rock. It was 1230pm. little did I know I would miss work the next day as I had a mini epic descent, but that’s another story. Preiss route IV 5.8/9 west peak mt Garfield July 1999. I belayed 4-5 harder pitches (with good pro) out of aprox 14-16(?) pitches. I took my camera but unfortunately I forgot to load the film before I left my car. Small/med rock rack to 3 inches. didn't need pins http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/2014-11-21_21_29_57.png[/img]2014-11-22_13_00_02-1.png20141122_194305-1.jpgIMG_7259_3_new.jpg2014-11-21_21_29_57.png

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what's the deal with the blue square and gray line on the "taken from infinite bliss" photo. climber and rope edited out?

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