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Alex

2014/2015 Washington State Ice Conditions

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After a recon' on Wednesday I went back Friday and Saturday for two laps up the practice gully. Here are some pictures in no particular order. There were three other parties climbing it Saturday. In all, there were about 7 pitches of low angle ice and a few steeper steps. The main flow became wetter further up until it became un-climbable.

P1020096_1280x960_.jpgPC310073.JPGPC310074_960x1280_.jpgPC310081_1280x960_.jpgPC310079_960x1280_.jpgPC310077_960x1280_.jpgP1030118_1280x960_.jpgP1020111_1280x960_.jpgP1020102_1280x960_.jpgP1030119_960x1280_.jpg

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It's a little late, but we climbed the NEB on Chair on the 4th. It was just below freezing most of the time we were there. The route was in good shape, I've never been there but it seemed maybe a little thin...? The whole east face was pretty much climbable snice and verglas to about 55 degrees.

 

P.S. if you haven't been there before (like us) the summer trail takes you almost right to the base of the climb (rather than postholeing all the way in from Source Lake.

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2 pitches were climbed this weekend at Millennium Wall (if anyone else has the Washington Ice Climbing book, we think it was probably the third Millennium Wall?). Thanks to Craig for finding and leading it!

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Climbed alpental on thursday. Lots of running water underneath the ice with very thin friable conditions. No reliable ice protection to be found on any of the flows.

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What are conditions looking like in Lillooet? Trying to decide whether to head north or go east to Banks Lake?

Edited by Nate G

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Looks like shit for the next week or so. Even Marble Canyon will be above freezing for the next few days. Cache Creek is predicted to have 13C during day and 6C at night on Sunday.

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I was up at rambles center yesterday, with decent conditions lower down from an inversion. Higher up it was thinner and dripping, and still looked like it was forming up. The forecast doesn't look promising for the weekend.

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It's a little late, but we climbed the NEB on Chair on the 4th....

 

P.S. if you haven't been there before (like us) the summer trail takes you almost right to the base of the climb (rather than postholeing all the way in from Source Lake.

 

Only because it's a low snow year. Normal winters the summer trail is a lot of avalanche hazard.

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I heard there were some bitching alpine climbing conditions the last few days. Now over.

Yes, I have heard. Wasted one day because a partner bailed last minute (yeah, you know who you are). And then this friggin job thing. It helps to have windows longer then 2-3 days if you are a working person.

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Bob, did you hear about this?

 

Second Ascent added 2 new photos — with Will Hinckley and Braden Downey.

January 17 at 1:04pm · Edited ·

From the guys that brought you "Fast & Light in the Alaska Range" did it again on one of Washington's formidable beasts. Last week Will Hinckley & Braden Downey climbed what is known to be the ‪#‎secondascent‬ of the Polish Route on Colfax Peak with difficulties of run-out sections up to WI6. Will states, "It's by far the best ice line I've been on in Washington and it's definitely deserving of more traffic."

 

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mr glass is half empty. though yes, any forecast beyond 3 days is suspect. certainly a 10 month forecast is as good as a lottery ticket. But I prefer to live in optimistic denial of reality.

 

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But I prefer to live in optimistic denial of reality.

I think this is called a 'willing suspension of disbelief', something all PNW climbers have mastered.

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Alex (and glassgowkiss) - I'm in, if there are any more winters this mild - my ice gear will last forever.

:tdown:

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I haven't sold any of my ice gear or my ski gear yet. I've gotten some amazing sailboat racing days in, and some mild weather cragging days for January. Best thing about WA is that whatever the weather is, you can usually craft a plan.

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Maybe we should head to the East Coast, as it looks like another Ice Age is beginning. :tup:

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