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eyesonice

new in the area, any ice to climb near Bellingham?

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I'm interested in single pitch easy to moderate ice climbs with relatively easy approach within 2 hours drive from Bellingham. Is anything in yet this time of year?

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Baker has seracing and waterfall flows right now and soon the ski area ice should be shaping up.

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Watch http://www.westcoastice.com/ and this forum for trip reports, if we get a early freeze some low elevation ice climbs can form over the boarder in the Hope area that are really fun, but they are all just super weather dependent. Bellingham is a generally warm place, most of the year there is not much besides what Wayne mentioned.....

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If it's below freezing at sea level, there are some OK routes towards Hope- about 1 hour drive. There are some routes along lower Frazier Canyon, beyond Hope, along Hwy 1 and Hwy 5 (Transcanada). These are approx. 1.5 hour drive. Squamish can be decent- for about 2-3 days every third or fourth season. There are numbers of mix alpine lines on Pyramid and Colonial Peaks. There is a pretty big ice pillar on a bench below Colonial/Pyramid Peak Glaciers, however not an easy place to get to or safe if there is any snow accumulation. There are 2 lines on Colfax, I bet they are already pretty snowed in.

To be honest, your best bet is Golden/Field area in B.C.

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If it's below freezing at sea level, there are some OK world class routes towards Hope- about 1 hour drive. There are some routes along lower Frazier Canyon, beyond Hope, along Hwys 1 (Transcanada) 3, and 5 . These are approx. 1.5 hour drive.

 

fixed that for u

 

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Dru, these climbs are OK, but far from "world class". Mousetrap is mediocre at it's best, even at best of times, usually they are wet as hell. Plumb by Pemberton has a lot of easy ice and walking, practically it has only 2 pitches you have to use rope on. From my experience the only 2 climbs I have do so far on parr with Rockies has to offer is White Blotter and As Seen on TV. Probably Kryptonite column would be a good climb, but I have never seen it formed at the bottom, even in 2002/03 season- with almost 3 weeks of sea level freezing themps.

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Bob, fact is you haven't done shit on the Coast and that's why you have so few climbs round here to try to compare to Rockies.

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Bob, fact is you haven't done shit on the Coast and that's why you have so few climbs round here to try to compare to Rockies.

The fact is this area is shit for ice, period. Just to prove my point I have done more then 50% climbs listed in West Coast Ice, and since according to you I have done shit, but climbed 50% of lines, then this area doesn't really offer shit.

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Quality and frequency are two different things. There's plenty of amazing climbs in the Rockies that rarely form, like the full ice version of Terminator.

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Bob, fact is you haven't done shit on the Coast and that's why you have so few climbs round here to try to compare to Rockies.

The fact is this area is shit for ice, period. Just to prove my point I have done more then 50% climbs listed in West Coast Ice, and since according to you I have done shit, but climbed 50% of lines, then this area doesn't really offer shit.

 

50% is a failing grade, and sounds like you filled the bowl with turds and not buds

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Quality and frequency are two different things. There's plenty of amazing climbs in the Rockies that rarely form, like the full ice version of Terminator.

which I have done twice. along with Replicant and Sea of Vapors also 2 times. Yes, Terminator is world class, so are a lot of climbs on Stanley Glacier headwall. There is nothing on the Coast, that is that long, that nice, that steep and that hard. That is what definition of world class is. What we have here is just OK, we do it, because there is nothing better to do. However it's far from world class.

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Those climbs look good to me! The plan is to go play around on the glacier for a few times to get my swing back. Having 4 days a week off I'm prepared to drive reasonable distances for some high quality ice. I appreciate your input.

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There is nothing on the Coast, that is that long, that nice, that steep and that hard. That is what definition of world class is.

 

I don't think long steep hard and nice is the definition of world class. Just nice. I mean, Mousetrap vs Cascade Falls. Mousetrap is longer, better climbing, slightly more hard climbing, and no real avvy hazard. Makes it better in my view. But Mousetrap has a one week season if lucky while Cascade is around for 5 months. That's the real difference.

 

As for nothing on the Coast equal to Stanley Headwall or Rundle - it's here. Seen tons of that stuff. Mostly not right off the road, though, so it hasn't been climbed yet.

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world class is something people will travel from all over the planet to do, and the fact is almost nobody is traveling to SW BC to get on ice routes. At the same time, there are people traveling to Iceland, Norway and Canadian Rockies, because these areas ARE world class. And trust me- people do not travel to Alberta to climb the Cascade, but they do to do Terminator or routes on SGH.

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world class is something people will travel from all over the planet to do, and the fact is almost nobody is traveling to SW BC to get on ice routes.

 

Well, given the short and unpredictable season it's hard to plan a vacation around it. On the other hand, when SW BC is in it's definitely worth coming here.

 

 

people do not travel to Alberta to climb the Cascade,

 

:lmao: bullshit.

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people do not travel to Alberta to climb the Cascade,

 

:lmao: bullshit.

 

I second that!

 

:brew:

 

eyesonice - To answer your original question, go to Mt. Baker.

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Just went to Mt Baker. The ski area ice. Still very wet but forming. We are heading to Leavenworth next weekend for their Christmas fest. Anything in around there yet?

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You need to see if Monty Piton (Lebenworth Ice Guru) knows anything that's current in the Icicle Canyon.

:yoda:

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Well, given the short and unpredictable season it's hard to plan a vacation around it. On the other hand, when SW BC is in it's definitely worth coming here.

people do not travel to Alberta to climb the Cascade,

:lmao: bullshit.

 

Short and unpredictable season is what eliminates this destination from the possibility of "world class". As far as ice Norway, Iceland or Scotland or even the Alps ARE world class. Canadian Rockies ARE world class, because they are consistent and have quality climbing. Gee, which part of this equation can't you grasp? And I still stand by my statement. People will climb Cascade when they show up for a trip, but I haven't yet met a person, who would fly half way around the world just to climb this specific line. But I have on Trophy Wall and on SGH.

BTW, speaking of experience- which routes have you done of either?

 

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