Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
eldiente

[TR] Squamish- Tantalus Wall - Tantalus Wall 5.11C A0 8/25/2014

Recommended Posts

Trip: Squamish- Tantalus Wall - Tantalus Wall 5.11C A0

 

Date: 8/25/2014

 

Trip Report:

You don't hear much about this route and now I know why. Feels kinda wild with lots of burly climbing.

 

I would only recommend this route if you've already done all the classics around town and/or like getting away from the crowds. Oh and the tree belay is the best belay in the world, not kidding. Might be worth the 50M OW lead just to experience this belay.

 

P1 5.11C. Opening moves is a bananas hard bolt protected boulder problem. 5.11c? Really? Goes into a harsh pin scarred crack. Lots of pin scares on this route which is unusual for Squamish.

 

P2. 5.10 OW. Brutal, 50M of 4-6 inch crack. I got smashed on this pitch. For a point of reference I thought Hypertension was easier. We only had 1x #5 cam. If I was doing it again I'd bring 1x #5 and 1x #6 and still walk them in front of me. There is some smaller gear in the back of the crack near the top but placing little gear deep in this gash is tough.

 

P3. Dirty 5.8 to big ledge.

 

P4. 5.11B. Wide corner climbing with a few ancient bolts goes right to a roof. Pull roof and into thin, pin scared crack. Pin scared crack was tough, flaring locks and trick gear. Not the usual Squamish splitter.

 

P5. 5.11B More of the same, pin scared thin crack. In spots the crack pinches down so it wouldn't be possible to French Free. Tough for the grade.

 

Crazy tree belay below roof. No joke, God created this belay just to be enjoyed. Thick tree is growing straight horizontal under a roof. Lay on your back in this tree and belay from bolts attached to wall.

 

P6. 5.11A Aid bolt ladder to crack system to the right, tension into crack. Wild swing for the follower. More 5.11 to a shitty bolted stance.

 

P7 5.11B. Up hard crack and then bust right onto slab (spooky!) to join up with the bolted slabs on Cerberus. Follow bolts wondering left to moderate crack and belay just below summit. The move coming out of the crack to the right looks really scary as there next piece of gear is way off to the right, however once you make a few balance moves you'll get on a nice crystal dyke that is mellow to traverse on.

 

 

P8 5.6. 10M. Bump belay to the summit.

 

 

Looking up at the tree belay!

 

0820.jpg

 

Gear Notes:

Lots of small gear and RPs for all the pin scars. Triple up on Red C3-Orange master cam. Doubles up to a #2. 1x #3. Bring Green and Purple C3.

 

For the OW pitch most parties do it with just 1x #5 and walk it for a very long way. Yikes! 1x #5 and 1x #6 would be better.

 

 

 

Approach Notes:

Skip the first 5.6 pitch and go up fixed hand line.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×