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[TR] Vesper Peak - Ragged Edge 9/20/2014

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Trip: Vesper Peak - Ragged Edge


Date: 9/20/2014


Trip Report:

This last Saturday, Lisa, Dylan, and I climbed Vesper Peak via "The Ragged Edge", a new route put up on the North Face about a year ago (Ragged Edge). We thought the route was an excellent addition to the area and is a much better option than the standard north face route. Great exposure! All pitches were well protected with a combination of natural pro, bolts, and some shinny new pitons. There is still some loose rock about, particularly on the last three pitches, but we cleaned up what we saw. The start of pitch 4 has a few huge detached blocks that I avoided pulling on, but they seemed pretty solid. Fortunately, the route trends to the right overall, so rockfall induced by parties higher up generally does not fall down the route. With a few more years, this route should clean up nicely. Surprisingly, there were two other parties ahead of us on the climb, so either we were unlucky or this route has already been getting a lot of traffic.


It's been a long summer, time to nap



Starting up the superb flake on pitch 1



On the 1st pitch, we missed the bolted 5.7 slab section. Because the parties ahead of us were kinda slow, we rapped down to a ledge and did it right. This was some of the most fun and solid climbing on the route, glad we did it! Rapping down to do the slab...






Top of pitch 5





The top-out involves a bit of heather



Gear Notes:

60 m rope

We brought the recommended rack, but didn't really use all of it.

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Cool. Glad to see it's getting lots of love. A few different parties I know climbed it over the last couple weekends and everytime shared it with at least one other party. So relatively speaking it's getting a lot of traffic.


Somewhat surprised you found loose rock on the upper pitches. I cleaned a lot of shit off. It's amazing how much loose rock you'll find on a seemingly solid face once you start removing vegetation and dirt.

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You should set up a tolling system Darin. Now one of the most climbed alpine routes outside of WA pass and da Toof?


I better check it out before it gets too polished.

  • That's funny! 1

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