Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
Ian Lauder

[TR] Ruth Peak & Icy Peak - Ruth/Icy Traverse 8/23/2014

Recommended Posts

Trip: Ruth Peak & Icy Peak - Ruth/Icy Traverse

 

Date: 8/23/2014

 

Trip Report:

We climbed Ruth/Icy Aug 23-24. Approach was in good shape and the gulley at Hannegan Pass wasn't difficult. Watch for knocking rocks down here.

 

There was only about 600 vertical feet of gain roped up on Ruth which was a straight forward climb up. At the rock summit go to the left of the summit block to find the climbers trail vs trying to go up it directly which would be a more difficult loose rock scramble. Descended Ruth's West ridge (some parties did descend the south ridge which is just slightly more exposed, both routes work).

 

Once at the camp area right at the head of the gulley we found plenty of running water and scouted out the descent route down the gulley. There are cairns marking the path more or less, you can take multiple paths down but stay out of the main gulley, go down just skiers left of the gully. We left at first light around 5:15am.

 

Also make sure to find the paths down to the Ruth/Icy saddle which are to the left. If you follow a path to the right it can cliff out. Once on the saddle we worked out way along the boulder fields to the bottom of the glacier and roped up.

 

Ascended the standard route (staying left near the ridge) and to the right of the bergschrund, then an ascending traverse right and zigzagged between a couple crevasses to reach the notch. Unroped at the notch and followed the climbers trail to the main gulley on the north face of Icy. With another party just coming down we used their rappel line to get a quick belay up to speed our ascent and setup our own handline. Got everyone up to the top by 11am and got back to camp by 2pm.

 

With some clouds and potential rain coming in we started out right away but luckily missed a rainshower that headed up the pass ahead of us and were back at the cars by 9:30pm. Route was in great shape.

 

2014_8_23_RuthIcy_1_83.jpg2014_8_23_RuthIcy_1_93.jpg2014_8_23_RuthIcy_1_267.jpg2014_8_23_RuthIcy_1_287.jpg2014_8_23_RuthIcy_1_206.jpg2014_8_23_RuthIcy_1_214.jpg2014_8_23_RuthIcy_1_264.jpg2014_8_23_RuthIcy_1_167.jpg2014_8_23_RuthIcy_1_171.jpg2014_8_23_RuthIcy_1_144.jpg2014_8_23_RuthIcy_1_160.jpg2014_8_23_RuthIcy_1_109.jpg

 

Gear Notes:

Standard glacier travel gear

one 60m or two 40m ropes to rappel the Icy summit gully

Icy gulley can be scrambled, there are also a few spots to place some pro so a light rack may be used, take gear to rappel back down

 

Approach Notes:

Easy approach, clear trails all the way to base of Ruth, running water at the camp area just ahead of the Ruth/Icy gulley. Also a few bivy spots right at the top of Ruth as well as just down the Ruth/Icy gulley. Gulley up to Ruth from Hannegan Pass was a little slippery (would be harder if it was wet and muddy).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Great photos, thanks for sharing! I have recommended this outing to many folks and everyone loves it.

Edited by DPS

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the reminder that I need to go back and do that trip again. So scenic!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×