Otto Posted August 23, 2014 Share Posted August 23, 2014 Trip: Three O'Clock Rock - Till Broad Daylight Date: 7/17/2014 Trip Report: Climb: Till Broad Daylight Date of Climb: 7/17/2014 Trip Report: Remember that 4-bolt constellation of rusty old steel to clip into after breathlessly tiptoeing sideways across the sloping knobs finishing the third pitch of Till Broad Daylight? Hoping for a bomber belay above the abyss of the Great Arch and getting this array of old stuff? My buddy Jake and I geared up for the extraction the other day and got in a modern anchor. After leading the damp first pitch, water running over the crux knobs with no apparent source, Jake wasn't surprised when it started to rain after the second pitch. We stood like stolid farmers while it pattered down, and after a while agreed to bag it and go down. Just as we were getting ready to rappel, it stopped. I racked up and slid across to the mank. Here is the junk at the end of its honorable career, in roughly this arrangement, with quarter-inch split shank bolts on the bottom three. The 5/16-inch one on top was hard to pull out, but the mighty Stanley bar was adequate. I lost the old bolt in the grass at the base of the Tidbits descent, so there is treasure there... And what a fine old folded piece of thin plate for the upper hanger! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Summit_Rolos Posted August 23, 2014 Share Posted August 23, 2014 thank you for replacing that mank! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonNelson Posted August 24, 2014 Share Posted August 24, 2014 Do I remember? How could I forget... I was up there just a few days before you replaced the bolts. They looked so sketchy that I traversed back and went up and right to the belay on the Kone. It was too bad, as the next pitch of Till Broad Daylight looked like a blast. With the new anchor, I'll be heading back up there to finish the route. Thanks a lot, Otto. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted August 25, 2014 Share Posted August 25, 2014 I haven't gone that way for at least ten years. Do you guys think that might be as good or better than or almost as good as The Kone for that part of the outing? My original thought was that the climbers who established Daylight went out of their way to avoid intersecting The Kone. In the original incarnation, they did not share a belay. By the way: trail work up there two weeks from now. Hope to see you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JonNelson Posted August 25, 2014 Share Posted August 25, 2014 Yes, for that section of rock, the part right above the old manky belay on Till Broad Daylight looked more fun than the Kone -- TBD looked steeper and with more knobs. Also, it seemed more "out there"... So, it has a nice solid belay now, but the leader should be comfortable clipping the old 1/4" protection bolts... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richfolsom Posted August 25, 2014 Share Posted August 25, 2014 Thanks for replacing those bolts. They were placed on the FA back in 1989 (or 1990) The original route did not share any bolts or belays with The Kone. If you look close at the three 1/4 hangers, I believe the bolt holes were drilled out to fit the split shank on the buttonheads. And the 5/16 hanger I think is a Leeper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted August 25, 2014 Share Posted August 25, 2014 I was there one day when we were headed up to repeat the Kone or other older routes on 3:00 Rock and there was a line of parties on Daylight. The route had not been there for more than a year, I bet, because I think I would have noticed it. Sensing there must be something good there, we took a number and really enjoyed the line. Do you remember this event? Opening day? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted October 18, 2015 Share Posted October 18, 2015 A couple of buddies and I went back today and Mark Hanna and I replaced five more rusty 1/4" bolts on that "headwall" pitch on 'Till Broad Daylight, accompanied by Jeff and Tyson. It was amazing as the earlier forecast was for something like a 70% chance of rain but the forecast suddenly looked better yesterday and the rain held off until we were all loaded and driving back down the road. There are still a couple of old bolts up there, but Daylight is looking pretty good. There was fresh chalk on all the knobs up there. Somebody who climbed it yesterday was just a day to early - unless they were looking for the last scary ascent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hanman Posted October 19, 2015 Share Posted October 19, 2015 Great day out Matt. The head wall pitch is stunning. Mh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted October 22, 2015 Share Posted October 22, 2015 Anybody wanna go replace a few more this weekend? I think the Saturday forecast looks doable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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