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[TR] Mount Baker - North Ridge 7/27/2014

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Trip: Mount Baker - North Ridge


Date: 7/27/2014


Trip Report:

Three of us headed out to climb the North Ridge of Mt Baker on Saturday. We made short work of the hike up to the 6,500 foot camp with great views the whole way up.


Hiking up.


After having some lunch and setting up camp we decided to scout the route across the glacier. We crossed the glacier, investigated a few different start options, and then headed back to camp.


Glacier scouting.


Back at camp we decided to go with the hourglass feature as our approach if we could get bast the bergshcrund. We were up early the next morning and ready to go back across our scouted route. We made good time to the bergschrund, passing a few groups along the way.


Morning climbing.


We got through the bergschrund by entering it on the climbers right side and using a ramp to get into the hourglass. We wet up a belay at the bottom of the ice ridge, opting to climb the lowest angle route possible. Andrew led up the 2 pitches of ice, his second time leading ice. The angle backed off not far into the second pitch and was perfect for pickets and moving quickly.


Andrew leading the first pitch.


Above the ice pitches Ilia led us up two long running belays before transitioning back to standard glacier travel.


Steep snow above the ice.


Based on a recommendation from the team behind us we decided to traverse out left toward the top to get to the summit. This involved a traverse across a steeper slope, and then a little crevasse navigation.




We reached the summit and relaxed a bit before heading down to pack up camp and get back to the car. Took 3.5 hours from the summit to the car. The Coleman-Deming route was in great shape, and there were quite a few people skiing down.


Me, Ilia, and Andrew on the summit.



Descending the trail.


*All photos taken by Ilia.


Gear Notes:

8 screws - would need less if more comfortable ice climbing

3 pickets - nice for the steep snow above the ice


Approach Notes:

Trail is in great shape. Glacier crossing is pretty direct at 6,500 feet.

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