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manninjo

Enchantments/Cashmere Crags opinions

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I got invited to join a core enchantments permit party with some non-climbing friends. I've never been up there before, but I'm hoping to sneak off for at least one summit (other than Little Annapurna which I think I can convince the group to walk up).

 

Looking at Beckey and some routes 5.4 and under, you have Mount Temple, listed at 5.3 - climb to a notch west of the summit on the Nada Creek side, then climb a bit of crack, slab, and chimney to the summit. Anyone have experience or insight on this route?

 

Another option is the High Priest, with the West Face going at 'maximum class 4 on good rock.' I found an old post where someone joked about it being much harder than 4th class. Any info on that?

 

Enchantment Peak looks like straightforward 4th class and pretty close to the main trail system.

 

Other than those three, I didn't see much else I'd personally feel good doing in approach shoes - ymmv of course. Am I missing any cool spires, blocks, or summits that would be as easy as/easier than the South Arete of SEWS or the S Face of the Tooth and accessible over a long morning from the core permit zone?

 

On a side note, how cool looking is the enchainment starting from the West Ridge of Prusik along Temple Ridge and down the across the Black Pyramid/Eagleheads?? Bring lots of water?

 

Thanks for any input!

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Here is the scoop. Do Little Annapurna and Enchantment Peak. Both are basically scrambles. Avoid permanent snowfields and higher peaks because you will see them all from anywhere. It is a cathedral of peaks but looking is just as good as getting and 5.3 Beckey can get you killed.

 

The Enchantments are one of the special places on earth, climbing or not. Go get some.

 

But then "get some" involves 10 miles and 5500 ft. elevation gain. It is an acquired taste.

 

Leavenworth has some of the most relief in the world. When in shape you will appreciate it. Up and up and up and so on.

 

One of my special car to car days was to do the entire route, mount Little Annapurna, and exit at Stuart TH. Many cc.comers have done it I am sure.

 

Edited by matt_warfield

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witches tower is pretty fun scramble if you're in the area - easy class 3 from the south of it. little annapurna is worth the hike up, great views, and if you have an ice axe dragontail is an easy but rewarding objective from that side as well.

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I would avoid Dragontail. Steep snow that might fill the pants of newbies. Being IN the upper Enchantments will fill the bill without danger. Hike to the base of Prusik, ascend Little Annapurna and Enchantment Peak and the group will have big smiles.

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Matt, I think he's looking for stuff to climb while his non-climbing buddies hike around and enjoy the scenery. Not stuff to try to get his non-climbing friends up.

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