oldgoat Posted January 6, 2003 Share Posted January 6, 2003 Chimo Merrycans Here's your Mable Canyon sitrep for 03/01/05. Daytime temps are in the order of -5C to 0C. As a result the climbs are quite wet. Concerns have been raised about the amount of water in the 'ice ranched' areas and the generally lean nature of ICBC. Adjustments to these water flows should be completed over the next few weeks (unless we go to the Rockies then all bets are off). All righty then! Here are your route conditions. The Dihedral Wet but leadable @ WI4 to WI4+ Waite for Spring Dry and leadable (stubbies needed) @ WI4 R/X. Waite for Spring (right) This is a new 'ranched' climb immediately to the right of WFS. It is dry and leadable @WI4. Waite for Spring (far right) Another new 'ranched' climb to the right of the previous climb. This is wet but leadable with sporty pro. Pink Cadillac Almost finished with the retrofitting (3/8 stainless bolts). Until then it is still @ TR. Deeping Wall The left side is still too thin to lead. If it cools down another 5 to 10 degrees the new center section should be leadable @ solid WI5. No Deductible Coming into shape. The bottom half is a fun TR on verglas and rock. The top half (the ice half) still needs some work before it could be led. ICBC Pitch 1 is sketchy but leadable. Pitches 2 & 3 didn't really survive the last blast of the Pineapple Express. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted January 6, 2003 Share Posted January 6, 2003 Hey they should name the new farm route. I propose Barnyard Pimp (that's a rooster). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted January 8, 2003 Share Posted January 8, 2003 Lets have a contest to guess who oldgoat is. My guess is Garry Brace. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jesse_mason Posted January 8, 2003 Share Posted January 8, 2003 Starting to look a little more reasonable!!! http://weatheroffice.ec.gc.ca/scripts/citygen.pl?client=eccdn_e&city=WKF Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted January 13, 2003 Share Posted January 13, 2003 As of Sunday 1/12 the conditions at Marble were pretty much the same as Oldgoats initial post. Rambles: Right side was in but was thinner then I've ever seen it. First pitch 3-, 2nd pitch easy 2 and third 2+/3-. First pitch on the left side was formed but the second corner pitch was not. I didn't get a chance to look at the last steep pitch on the left side. Gotta thank J-Dog and Mr. Radon for helping fix my flat tire and cleaning up Fred Roger's busted head courtesy of the a Charlet Moser Adze. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted January 13, 2003 Share Posted January 13, 2003 Anyone been into the Bridge yet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted January 13, 2003 Share Posted January 13, 2003 I talked to a local climber from Kamloops on Sunday. He mentioned that he hasn’t heard anything about Bridge yet but also mentioned he thought the avy conditions were pretty bad for whatever thats worth. I also forgot to thank the friendly Canadian police officer that gave me a ticket for going 115 km in a 90 zone on Highway 1. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted January 13, 2003 Share Posted January 13, 2003 avvy conditions were fine, in general.... i bet they are worse now... but i would guess the higher n facing stuff in the bridge is in, or coming in and the stuff like old dogs and boulder cr. falls is not. those of you with ice maps can compare elevations of say, rambles and nightngale. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CascadeClimber Posted January 13, 2003 Share Posted January 13, 2003 The Night N Gale and Shriek approaches are extraordinarily bad places to be when avalanche danger is up. The slides that come down the Night N Gale gully start way above the top of the climb and sometimes stop within spitting distance of the river. Be safe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredrogers Posted January 14, 2003 Share Posted January 14, 2003 I also forgot to thank the friendly Canadian police officer that gave me a ticket for going 115 km in a 90 zone on Highway 1. Tim, they're not called Mounties for nothing. And yes, a hearty thanks to Mr. Radon for patching up my bean. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted January 14, 2003 Share Posted January 14, 2003 People commonly overestimate avvy danger in these gullies re: ice fest last year when everyone and their dog in the bar was convinced Avvy conditions were Extreme on Ni&G, we were the only ones who drove out there, did on site evaluation as Low, climbed it, whole canyon to ourselves. Snow stable the whole day. But if you wanna go somewhere else and leave the routes to me more power to ya. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted January 14, 2003 Share Posted January 14, 2003 Please let me know if there is something blatantly obvious that I'm not considering, but how can you do an onsite avy evaluation on terrain thats much different and much higher than the area in which your onsite evaluation is taking place. If there is a trick in that area, I've only been there once, for checking avy conditions on those climbs please fill me in. I'm not trying to be a dick just looking for some potentially useful information. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted January 14, 2003 Share Posted January 14, 2003 I went with a guy who is a pro patroller and he looked up the gully at the huge amount of bare rock and tree sticking out above the gully and pronounced the risk low. in fact the whole thing had slid 5-7 days earlier and snow above was minimal new accumulation. other than bringing your own pro i dont know what method to use except hiring a helicopter and making bombing runs first. however my point was just cause you read on www.avalanche.ca that avvy conditions are high (and i bet they are considerable or ower there right now) or some guy in the bar or online says they are high, does not mean they necessarily are on site. or it could say things are low and a freak storm could have dumped 10 inches of killer pow right above the last belay DEATH FROM ABOVE!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted January 14, 2003 Share Posted January 14, 2003 When we hiked up to Shriek last year there was a ton of Avy Debris in the approach gully, and only about 3-6 inches of new light snow. The danger seem ed pretty minimal. I'd say big ice balls on the approach are a good indication that it has recently slid and is now safe. Just pay attention to the weather, and don't go if the weather hasn't been stable. I've read and heard some stories about folks getting sluffed on pretty hard while up there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted January 14, 2003 Share Posted January 14, 2003 Beyond the obvious, I’m just trying to learn the peculiarities of the area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted January 14, 2003 Share Posted January 14, 2003 Since those climbs are on the east aspect of the canyon, high winds after a recent snowfall could cause heavy windloading up there... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icegirl Posted January 14, 2003 Share Posted January 14, 2003 yeah, the giant snowballs and the freshly exploded tree trunks are a good sign that there was a recent slide. That was loose lady and Night n gale last time I was up... Those snowballs that are larger then me are a pain in the ass to hike on.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CascadeClimber Posted January 14, 2003 Share Posted January 14, 2003 People commonly overestimate avvy danger in these gullies re: ice fest last year when everyone and their dog in the bar was convinced Avvy conditions were Extreme on Ni&G, we were the only ones who drove out there, did on site evaluation as Low, climbed it, whole canyon to ourselves. Snow stable the whole day. But if you wanna go somewhere else and leave the routes to me more power to ya. Last time I was up there I hiked up a large, recent tough *in the trees*. It wasn't snowing and there was little fresh snow at the base. I got hit by a sluff at the last belay and there was a sizable (but not huge) slide while we were descending from the top. Both started well above the climb and they happened with 15 minutes of each other. I'm not trying to scare anyone off, I just wanted to point out that you cannot assess the avalanche threat from the bottom or approach on that climb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdog Posted January 14, 2003 Share Posted January 14, 2003 Hey Tim you will have to talk to Mr. Radon about his ticket on the way back. FWIW he beat you on the fine. That is some crazy shit that you guys both got tickets. I wonder if it was the same mounty. Good time this weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heinouscling Posted January 15, 2003 Share Posted January 15, 2003 A few years back, I got a ticket also. It was a few miles before Hope on the way back to the states. FUCKERS!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted January 15, 2003 Share Posted January 15, 2003 I just wanted to point out that you cannot assess the avalanche threat from the bottom or approach on that climb. Maybe you cant but it doesnt mean that anyone cant. You can eyeball the terrain above and check amount of bare ground visible from several points along the road. You can drive up the Shalath road to assess similar conditions on a nearby ridge crest. Loren you are digging yourself a hole and I dont mean a Rutschblock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CascadeClimber Posted January 15, 2003 Share Posted January 15, 2003 True dat: I don't have the skills the assess a slope from 3000 feet below it, or to ascertain its stability from conditions on a ridge-top miles away. As Clint says, "A man has got to know his limitations." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fromage Posted January 17, 2003 Share Posted January 17, 2003 so...about those Marble Canyon conditions... Sorry to detract from the engaging discussion of speeding tickets and long range avalanche assessment, but does anyone have any fresh info (more recent than Sunday)? On the ice conditions I mean, not the guys in red jackets and silly hats. See you at Marble bright and early on Sat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LillooetIceFest Posted January 22, 2003 Share Posted January 22, 2003 Hello all Just got an email and then spoke to the BC Parks supervisor for the area. He is pissed off that water has been diverted without them being told about it. I asked "Is this serious?"" He said "It violates the water and park acts, so yes it is." Whomever wishes to talk to me about this, please call me at my home 250-256-0137 yours Bernard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted January 22, 2003 Share Posted January 22, 2003 Well, I hate to say this but...no shit. Did the people who made the diversions think otherwise? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.