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timmatsui

[TR] Mt. Stuart - Full North Ridge 7/12/2014

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Trip: Mt. Stuart - Full North Ridge

 

Date: 7/12/2014

 

Trip Report:

Sorry if I messed up the pictures posting, the vertical that's horizontal, etc. I'm not super savvy with this interface. This is mostly for a conditions report to help people decided their gear/strategy.

 

It was super warm conditions so the aluminum crampons weren't needed. Light axe was. We wore approach shoes.

 

Mosquitos are horrendous from Ingall's Pass elevation to about the notch on the N. Ridge of Stuart; must be a hatch happening.

 

Snow in Ingalls basin, lake still partly frozen. Possible to climb/descend snow from the lake all the way to base of South Face route on Ingalls Pk. Water is available at outflow of lake.

 

IMG_44231.JPG

 

Snow as you drop from base of W. Ridge Stuart to boulder field below Goat Pass.

 

IMG_44261.JPG

 

Substantial snow crossing to base of N. Ridge. Stuart Glacier, if you're going to the half-ridge, is not blue ice yet. Still a finger of snow in the gully getting to the notch. Plenty of water at base of ridge (either on you way there or just below), still a snow patch at the notch, and plenty of snow on the south side of the summit.

 

http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=98244&title=conditions-for-approach-to-north-ridge-mtstuartearly-july-2014&cat=500

 

IMG_44861.JPG

 

For W Ridge climbers, there's still a bit of snow in the approach couloir and a couple patches on the ridge line.

 

IMG_46112.JPG

 

IMG_4620.JPG

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Nice concise TR. It was great running into you guys on the route. Here's a shot of you guys simuling just after the gendarme.

P1030401_sm.JPG

 

Cheers!

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