mhux Posted July 4, 2014 Share Posted July 4, 2014 Recently I've been reading about clove hitching pieces in line to create anchors- plug a few pieces, and clove hitch the rope taut between them. In such a scenario, how would you belay a second up, not off your harness? I can't think of how you would use a belay device in autolocking mode with this setup, anyone have two cents they'd like to contribute? Maybe the answer is obvious but I'm just missing it. Thanks in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stamati Posted July 5, 2014 Share Posted July 5, 2014 (edited) Inline anchor with equalized third piece this is what i would do in a situation where i needed to have an inline anchor but could get a third piece in. if i couldn't get a third piece in, maybe i'd do this inline anchor fig 8 on bight  you can edit those drawings if you have any other ideas. this sketchtoy thing is neato! Edited July 5, 2014 by stamati Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drederek Posted July 5, 2014 Share Posted July 5, 2014 Well you could hang a draw off the lower piece if it was above or away from you and set it up like a toprope. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted July 5, 2014 Share Posted July 5, 2014 I can't think of how you would use a belay device in autolocking mode with this setup... Why would you want to in such a circumstance...? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mhux Posted July 5, 2014 Author Share Posted July 5, 2014 I can't think of how you would use a belay device in autolocking mode with this setup... Why would you want to in such a circumstance...? Â To reap the benefits of an autolocking belay device...because its easy and allows you to multitask, in other words. Is that what you mean? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted July 6, 2014 Share Posted July 6, 2014 I can't think of how you would use a belay device in autolocking mode with this setup... Why would you want to in such a circumstance...? To reap the benefits of an autolocking belay device...because its easy and allows you to multitask, in other words. Is that what you mean? Personally I don't define "easy" or "allows you to multitask" as 'benefits' when it comes to belaying - quite the contrary - 99% of the time multitasking is the last thing anyone should be doing when belaying. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wallstein Posted July 6, 2014 Share Posted July 6, 2014 Instead of having the rope tight between the two pieces, leave a couple feet of rope, then pull this rope down towards the direction of pull and tie a figure of eight on a bight or do another clove hitch and clip your autolocking belay device of choice there. (Or just clip a biner here to redirect the rope and belay off your harness) Â This isn't the sort of setup I'd use out at the crag or on a regular basis but it is good to know how to do if you don't have any slings or cord to build a more properly equalized anchor. Â And as far as using an auto-locking device vs. a conventional tuber style device, I'm pretty sure that debate has happened numerous times all over the internet. But to counter JosephH's argument, I find my self in scenarios all the time where multitasking while belaying is actually the safer thing to do. On many longer climbs the reward of increasing your speed and efficiently outweighs the risks of multitasking. But say "99%" of your time is spent climbing 1 to 3 pitch climbs at Beacon rock it is definitely not safer to multitask nor is it needed. But for those that do climb really long routes (think grade V or longer) it is an accepted practice to eat, drink, change shoes, re-rack, add layers, remove layers, etc.. while using an autolocking belay device. Â Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blake Posted July 6, 2014 Share Posted July 6, 2014 You can also just use the thumb loop /sling/wire of your lowest piece as the PowerPoint to clip yourself and hang your device from. Â Don't listen to JosephH. People ( even when not multitasking) lose attention, get distracted, and stop functioning right. The laws of Gravity and physics don't go on break. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted July 6, 2014 Share Posted July 6, 2014 Don't listen to JosephH. People ( even when not multitasking) lose attention, get distracted, and stop functioning right. Yeah, people who shouldn't be climbing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mhux Posted July 7, 2014 Author Share Posted July 7, 2014 Great stuff, thanks for the tips! All makes sense now... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake_Gano Posted July 7, 2014 Share Posted July 7, 2014 Remember that clove hitching pieces in line is a PITA if you're leading in blocks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mhux Posted July 7, 2014 Author Share Posted July 7, 2014 (edited) Right, I'd just use it for swapping leads. Good reminder though Edited July 7, 2014 by mhux Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
genepires Posted July 7, 2014 Share Posted July 7, 2014 leading the whole thing is leading in one block. Â If you are leading the whole thing and use your rope for the anchor, you will need to either redo the anchor with the second's rope or swap ends at every belay. Â using the rope for an anchor is something that should be done in the rare case of not having a cordelette or runners to make a proper anchor. from a rock rescue point of view, using the rope to make an anchor creates many difficulties. (escape belay amongst many issues) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete04 Posted July 9, 2014 Share Posted July 9, 2014 This might help: Â He clearly demonstrates how to build a poor anchor with rope, a good anchor with rope, and why to just use cordolette anyway. Â I actually had to build an anchor from rope yesterday as I stupidly only brought one cordolette on my two pitch climb. Reaching into my shallow bag of tricks I clove hitched three bomber pieces in-line and belayed off my harness - not textbook but I deemed it safe enough for the low-5th class pitch I was belaying. I wish I had known his second option, equalized the anchor, and had a master point with which to use my Reverso. ...lessons learned and my shallow bag of tricks gets ever so slightly less shallow.... Â Â Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stamati Posted July 21, 2014 Share Posted July 21, 2014 I knew it was going to be Mike Barter. I love that man. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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