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dafna

[TR] Dragontail Peak - Serpentine Arete 7/3/2014

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Trip: Dragontail Peak - Serpentine Arete

 

Date: 7/3/2014

 

Trip Report:

My friend from college, Sean, was passing through the cascades and we decided to go up Serpentine Arete. We met at Stuart Lake TH at 6:15am.

 

Rough timeline:

03:45 - wake up in Seattle

04:00 - on the road to Leavenworth

06:30 - start hiking

10:15 - start climbing

18:30 - summit

00:45 - back at car (Sean was already asleep in his car for over 2.5 hours)

04:00 - back in Seattle (after a 1 hour power nap somewhere off of highway 2)

 

We pitched out everything through the crux pitch at the "black tower". From there we simul-climbed for an hour until we untied from the rope for the remaining 3rd of the climb. This part was a scramble on very loose rock. We spent 30 minutes at the top and then started the descent.

 

Approaching the start of the route:

IMG_20140703_093544211.jpg

 

Sean in yellow at the base of the climb:

IMG_20140703_094355957.jpg

 

Sean leading the first pitch:

IMG_20140703_102254745.jpg

 

We met 3 nice guys from the east coast at the summit. We didn't see them the whole route except when we got to the loose scramble at the top third. They did a great job of not kicking down rocks on us! Here is Sean taking a picture of them:

IMG_20140703_183445417.jpg

 

Great views from the summit:

IMG_20140703_183416875.jpg

 

Sean with the enchantments in the background on the descent:

IMG_20140703_191548776.jpg

 

Gear Notes:

50m rope and single rack with doubles between .4 and 1. This seemed like a good amount for us.

I brought crampons and an ice axe. Only used the crampons on the approach since the snow was still firm, but could have gotten away without them. Ice axe was nice for the descent to the top of asgard pass.

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