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[TR] Mt Rainier - Disappointment Cleaver 7/1/2014

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Trip: Mt Rainier - Disappointment Cleaver


Date: 7/1/2014


Trip Report:

A buddy and myself drove up to the park from Portland the morning of July 1st. We got there around 10am and was heading to Muir Camp about an hour later. It was sunny and warm out with a slight breeze going on.


From the trail head it's pretty much all snow till Muir Camp. The snow field was rather slushy but what else can you expect when it's sunny and 70 degrees. We got up to camp about five hours later to find out it wasn't that packed. There was around 8 tents set up and a few guided parties.


We woke up around 12am with the sound of the guided parties leaving. We got up at this point, got ready, and headed out.


The Cowlitz Glacier was a simple walk across following the well worn boot path. Next was crossing over the Cathedral Rocks to get to the Ingraham Glacier. IG had a solid boot path as well and not many crevasses opening up near the path.


Next up was the Disappointment Cleaver. It still had a decent amount of snow on it so there wasn't that much scramble. There was fixed lines pretty much the whole way as well.


After getting off of the cleaver we made our way up to the rim. Again there was a super worn boot path and wands. There was a few crevasses along the path which were mostly small step overs. There was one that prompted a small jump and it will probably have opened up some more from all of this warm weather.


Around 1300 feet clouds and high winds rolled in. At this point there was about 50 feet of visibility. We continued up and made it to the crater. We dropped our packs and made our way over to the Columbia Crest. The winds were still high and very low visibility so we didn't stick around for long. It was around 7am when started to make our way back down.


Not much changed coming back down. Once we got past 1200 feet the clouds went away though. The snow got a little more mushy but no new crevasses opened up. Once we made it back to camp we ate some food, packed up, and headed back down to the car. The snow field was super slushy at this point in the afternoon but at least it was down hill.


lower part of IG:


top of DC looking up to the rim:


clouds rolled in:


typical crevasse size you have to cross


sun rise:



Gear Notes:

standard glacier travel gear (didn't use any of it)


Approach Notes:

Slog city

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