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GNARnia

[TR] Prussik Peak - Beckey-Davis-Rhoderick-TownSEND-Stanley-Burgner 6/27/2014

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Trip: Prussik Peak - Beckey-Davis-Rhoderick-TownSEND-Stanley-Burgner

 

Date: 6/27/2014

 

Trip Report:

I was lucky enough to snaffle up a Snow Lakes camping pass this week, as well as an excellent partner to head up mid week with. We had plans of doing more routes up there but the weather moved in and I bonked hard on our first day.

Working off a very poor printout of the Nelson-Potterfield topo we started up the Beckey-Davis route instead of Stanley-Burgner but the last pitch is so obvious Helen Keller could get there (with some spray).

 

On the summit Johnny and I were convinced that was the hardest 5.9 we had ever done, and that we had found a way around the 5.9 squeeze, which in reality was 100 ft to our left. I found the description ambiguous enough to believe we were on route the whole time (Der Routefinding)

 

Almost got our rope stuck on the last rap, got into camp at 10PM after 16 hours on the move.

 

P1: Started up a #4 sized crack left of the Beckey-Davis Chimney, eventually hit the chimney, encountering a pin, & the belay buttonheads. From here I headed up a gully with a tricky knob traverse to a tree at 70M

Mproj description said a 5.8 crack left of a chimney, easily linked to a tree so we thought we nailed it!

P2: Continued up the gully, then left up a series of fun finger cracks, ending on Snafflehound Ledge

Mproj said head up to the highest tree with a think crack going up. I think there was a think crack

P3: We thought we were now on the 5.8 OW pitch of S-B. Directly above Snaffle Hound is a great OW with knobs on the outside and chockstones inside for respite. It protected adequately with our rack and the knobs encouraged me to layback and mantle around the gnarlier bits. Eventually it let off into a gully, right before I lost visual contact I built a belay in a .5/.75 crack. We assumed it was just the hardest 5.8 we'd ever done, but it was obviously harder than the 5.9+ pitch.

P4: We chose a finger crack instead of a squeeze that was above us, making us think we were still on route. Its relatively moderate until you hit a finger traverse that brings you to the big ledge below the final pitch. My topo is probably off here, but its pretty straightforward.

P5: The last pitch of Stanley-Burgner, super fun! Thought it would be harder after the shit we put ourselves through.

 

The rock was basically wonderful the whole way through, which is a testament to Prussik.

 

Has anyone done what was our P3? Its a great offwidth, and very prominent from the base, it certainly has to have been climbed before.

South_Face_of_Prussik_Route.jpg

 

IMG_2164.JPG

"Der 5.8" OW

IMG_21663.JPG

"Pretty sure we are on route"

 

Gear Notes:

"Dude I would totally blow someone for a #4 right now"

 

Approach Notes:

Snow Lakes Trail, there's little bit of snow underneath Prussik & Vivianne.

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