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[TR] Mt. Hood - South Climb: Mazama Chute Up, Old Chute down 6/22/2014

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Trip: Mt. Hood - South Climb: Mazama Chute Up, Old Chute down


Date: 6/22/2014


Trip Report:

Not a bad day for a summit! My buddy picked me up around 2:30 from tacoma and we got to to Timberline lodge around 6. We had dinner out at the parking lot. Pasta with shrimp and pesto!!

We spent some time in the lodge resting. By the time it was 10:00 pm there were a lot of cars in the parking lot. We set off at 11:15 from the trailhead and started up the mountain. No moon so all we had were headlamps and the lights from the snow cats up on the snowfield. Busy night at Hood!


We skirted around and got to the top of the Palmer Lift in 2 hours. Up the Triangle Moraine we went, it was steep! We put crampons on halfway up. Started to smell that oh so lovely smell of sulfur and it was making me feel nauseated and sick. At devils kitchen i could breath but it was taking big breaths. Decided to stick with my mouth on breathing and not my nose through that area. Onto the Hogsback and I was still feeling sick. Kept going though because i knew it not something serious. There may have been 10 people ahead of us. Up towards the old chute but we went right up the Mazama chute. Lots of loose ice but still some good boot pack. I used my ice axe and one tool. People were getting up the chute with just an ice axe.


The feeling when I got up out of the chute and saw sunrise and the other mountains was priceless. Almost shed a tear on the summit! me and my buddy had the summit to ourselves for about 10 minutes before people started to traverse over. Nice views! Could see Portland and the Columbia River as well as the Dalles. Nice views all around!


Heading down the mazama was not an option without no protection. We traversed the catwalk (scary as hell)and proceeded down the old chute.


All in all a good day! 11 hour round trip on no sleep!




Gear Notes:

Technical Gear: One ice axe will be okay. i used an extra tool and helped a lot


Approach Notes:

Timberline Lodge

Follow the headlamps!

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I'm headed to PDX to do this with my brother who lives down there next weekend. Couple of questions:


Light hikers+strap-on crampons ok? Or, phrased another way, is there any real ice climbing/front pointing?


Are most folks roping up at some point? I'm solid on steep snow/ice but I'd feel like a dick if my brother got killed because I was too lazy to carry a rope.


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If you know you know how to use rope and pickets I'd bring them just for more protection. There isn't hard ice. There's a good bootpack but don't underestimate the mileage. Bring water, Gatorade and lots of adrenaline.


Watch the weather too

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Just going on your AK location listing...but not sure what you've climbed before but I'm thinking yes, you'll be fine with hikers and strap-on crampons. There is no real ice climbing or need to front point--there will be a boot pack.


If your brother never climbs I could see roping up but frankly the 'dangerous' section is only about 500ft and it is normally teeming with hordes of people. 97 times out of 100 a rope would be a total encumberment and hazard imo.


Here's last year on a May weekend:




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i would personally choose a light mountaineering boot rather than hiking boots. in my opinion they'll be more comfortable in the long run.


or skis and AT boots.<------


good job dchromey! you've come a long way since joining the mountaineering hordes, its been fun to watch you progress on the website here.

Edited by christophbenells

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Thanks all.



If your brother never climbs I could see roping up



Bingo. That picture is telling. I'm solid and wouldn't worry about soloing it if it was just me, but I don't think my brother has ever worn crampons before. I think I'll just throw ~100 feet of half rope and a picket in the pack. If we don't use it then "training weight" will be good for me.



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