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mountainmb

Torment Forbidden Conditions

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Climbed the west ridge of Forbidden on 6/24-25. Lots of snow starting just below tree line before entering into Boston basin. The couloir leading to the notch and beginning of the west ridge has a lot of snow and takes you just below the notch, a couple moves on rock and you're on the ridge. Take care while down climbing the col as the snow warms up very quickly. The conditions make for a fast climb and get an early start.

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Completed the traverse today. It's doable right now. Ranger at marblemount said someone was on the traverse Tuesday, but we saw no evidence of any previous party at all even on Torment.

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Do you think boots and crampons are a necessity on the Travers or do you think Guide Tennies and aluminum crampons would be sufficient? Obviously everyone is different. Thanks for any input.

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I did it in ski boots and steel crampons - maybe you can do it in tennies and aluminum crampons...

 

try it and let us know how it works out!

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