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boonecounty

Eve Dearborn Memorial

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Just wondering if anyone was thinking of climbing this route this winter. I lived in Bellingham last spring/summer and did quite a bit of climbing. Really thought about this route a lot this fall. I am living in Tahoe right now. But if someone finds that route in the right condition I would be happy to throw my gear in the car and be there in 12 hours. I would also like any beta anyone has on the route. Thanks

 

ps. you guys have such a awesome board, nothing like it in the sierras, met two of my best climbing partners ever on this board.

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BooneC, this is mostly a very late winter or spring route, one i've been eyeing for some years. Index is low elevation so it is best done in a stable spring cold snap when avy danger is non existant. I'd be curious to know the last time it was climbed. Could have been done recently by a non-CC poster. Anyway, if it does come into shape, and someone here does it, chances are you'll hear about it.

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Don't think it's been repeated. I'll go if it's "in" although I've heard it hasn't come in for a while (which may be B.S.)

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RE-Don't think it's been repeated. I'll go if it's "in" although I've heard it hasn't come in for a while (which may be B.S.)

 

******************************************

 

It has been repeated..........

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Me and James (aka crippleknee) did it last Saturday in the rain. He cried the entire time. I couldn't believe it, what a whiner. I finallly cut the rope and let him solo down, while I finished the route and performed a beautyful swan dive into Lake Serene.

 

The route is in good shape for suicidal cartoon characters.

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Last I heard, you were chained to your dog house and growing like a weed. How'd you escape long enough to send that gem? Oh, and are claws aid?

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It needs to be in the 30's in seattle for that route to come in thats the impression that I get... Just Curious why is it Jim's book if it hasn't been repeated and its very unlikly for the average person who buys jims book to want to do that route

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Graybeard hadn't had a repeat when the book was published right? and Colonial has only seen two ascents? I think it is just in there for us gapers to gawk at and know its there. Plus didn't jim do the first ascent. won't you put it your book if you had the fa

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Just Curious why is it Jim's book if it hasn't been repeated and its very unlikly for the average person who buys jims book to want to do that route

 

 

Perhaps because it's the coolest lookin line in that book...

The question is, why more of the average people who buy that book don't get fucked trying it....?

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Also, perhaps Jim included the route in his first book as a memorial to Eve Dearborn....just a wild guess.

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Nothing like throwing out a challenge for those who want to have a go.

 

Fun thing about climbing is the average joe can get up and do anything. the only constraints a person has is there own.

 

You might also forget how many silent hardmen and women there are out there waiting for the route to come in shape.

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Maybe but pictures do some justice in convincing his route is good. Not that other routes are not.

 

BTW I spoke with my buddy- he's mistaken his friend never climbed it. fruit.gif

 

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Mr. Skisports say:

"You might also forget how many silent hardmen and women there are out there waiting for the route to come in shape."

 

I'd say that there are very few such silent hardsters-in-wait....the climb is a chossy death route. Where were these folks over the last several years?

It looks cool from a distance and it made it, for whatever reason, into a cool-climbs style guidebook...but it ain't a nice route.

- Dwayner

 

 

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Actually Dwyaner, if I read correctly Tim L said that, not skisports. Tim L is right. There are quite a number of silent hard men and women out there who dont give 2 cents about this web site and us silly posters who frequent it, but regularly run up all manner of routes a-la-Colin et al.

 

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Sorry ski-sport.

I'm sure they're all kinds of toughies out there who are quiet and some who are not. I know a few who I consider to be some of the best climbers in the region who most locals have probably never heard of because they keep to themselves.

Anyway, that's not my point....my point is, other than maybe doing a second ascent, that route is as I stated...a chossy death route. I've scrutinized it, and have even looked down the route from above to check it out. Sure, someone could do it, in fact lots of folks probably could, but they don't because it's dangerous and the conditions would need to be very special.

Wear a helmet and don't expect a lot of protection.

 

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dwayner wrote:

the conditions would need to be very special.

 

dwayner, i think this is the only relevent statement in your post above. good conditions for the climb (i.e. well iced up) would tend to address your concerns for lack of pro and loose rock. obviously, these conditions don't occur very often, but when they do, I don't see EDM as inherently any more dangerous than other routes of its type. If what you are saying is that your level of risk-tolerance won't justify mixed alpine routes, then you should just say so.

 

The truth is, index has a rep for bad rock, but if it were in the rockies, it would be famous for exceptionally good rock.

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Forrest-dude:

 

I take nothing back from my original statement. As one who has actually checked it out, I'm only offering my opinion. It ain't for me and the fact is, not many people are climbing it and it's not just because the conditions aren't ripe very often or their "level of risk-tolerance won't justify mixed alpine routes". So go climb it, m'man. I hope you have a safe and successful journey and post a few pictures when you come back because it is a cool-looking route.

 

- Dwayner

 

P.S. Since when has "relevance" been a requirement for posting on this web-site?

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With more ascents knowledge of a route increases. It doesnt make things safer or easier but the impression of a route may change.

 

Take the POLL bigdrink.gif And who has their chutes packed??! hahaha.gif

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