Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber


      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  

[TR] Dragontail Peak - Serpentine Ridge 6/7/2014

Recommended Posts

Trip: Dragontail Peak - Serpentine Ridge


Date: 6/7/2014


Trip Report:

My good buddy, Matt, and I took advantage of the warm and sunny spring weather to go for Serpentine Ridge on Dragontail this weekend. Got up at 4am at our glorious campsite in the Icicle Canyon and left the trailhead at 5:15 or so, fingers crossed for dry conditions on the route... especially this early in the season. Funny to think that exactly two years ago my wife and I climbed Triple Couloirs in snowy conditions.


The trail up to Colchuck Lake was dry and fast; the snow started at the boulders at the end of the lake. Perfect. The snow was hard enough to cruise up to the base of the route quickly, but soft enough that I was able to kick steps with approach shoes and without 'pons.



Dragontail in the morning hours.



Start of the route.


We simul-climbed for the first 500 ft, with some loose rock. We roped up for 3-4 long pitches of 5.7-5.8 climbing, with a 5.9-ish climbing up a crack system.




We simul-climbed the remainder of the route (low 5th class and 4th class terrain) without much in the way of route finding difficulties, with the one exception of the last pitch, which was mid-5th. Fortunately, the rock was dry for most of the route, other than a small snow patch here and there. Unfortunately, there was substantial loose rock on the upper part of the route, especially near the gully on the right side of the ridge.



Matt on the summit


The descent was fast, with snow most of the way to Colchuck Lake. We then picked up the dry trail and cruised on back to the car, arriving back around 6:00pm or so.


Have at it!!



Gear Notes:

double rack BD cams .4 thru 2, single 3, and set of nuts. Ice axe was helpful on the approach and descent. Crampons could have been left at home.


Approach Notes:

Easy breezy.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this