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WTF is this shit with belaying like this!


glassgowkiss

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This is down right stupid. Who the fuck come up with this idea of belaying like this? I see it in gyms all the time, which scares the shit out of me.

Check this video- this is from actual "climbing school"! How in the hell can someone catch an unexpected fall, if the rope is not in a braking position?

[video:youtube]v=XW2IbQtkp8Y&feature=youtu.be&noredirect=1

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Yes, but the very same people make it later to the local crag. They pretty much make me cringe, on the top of that usually they get upset, when I tell them, their belay technique is incorrect and they put the other person in danger. Even more- this stupid ass technique is described in manuals, training videos, and is pretty much a norm in most local gyms.

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What's this "belay" thingy you speak of???

Look at the braking hand. If loaded, this rope will go through the belay device like there is no tomorrow. Without autolocking device (like Gri-Gri), the brake hand has to be in braking position. It's the angle of the rope, which is basically useless in the technique shown. IT IS DANGEROUS!

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You will also be able to hold a fall a lot easier if the thumb of your brake hand is towards the belay device. Holding the rope with the thumb away from the belay device (as in the video) makes it really awkward to even put your hand in a brake position.

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What's this "belay" thingy you speak of???

 

he is trying to get you all crazy, Bob. please don't feed the animals.

 

yeah, it is poor technique. Hoping it is for belaying a TR and not a leader. that unanchored belayer is pretty far from the base of the rock.

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What's this "belay" thingy you speak of???

Look at the braking hand. If loaded, this rope will go through the belay device like there is no tomorrow. Without autolocking device (like Gri-Gri), the brake hand has to be in braking position. It's the angle of the rope, which is basically useless in the technique shown. IT IS DANGEROUS!

I guess you aren't into sarcasm?
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What's this "belay" thingy you speak of???

Look at the braking hand. If loaded, this rope will go through the belay device like there is no tomorrow. Without autolocking device (like Gri-Gri), the brake hand has to be in braking position. It's the angle of the rope, which is basically useless in the technique shown. IT IS DANGEROUS!

I guess you aren't into sarcasm?

Not into sarcasm? A six year old video making the fun of the way americans belay?!?!

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What's this "belay" thingy you speak of???

Look at the braking hand. If loaded, this rope will go through the belay device like there is no tomorrow. Without autolocking device (like Gri-Gri), the brake hand has to be in braking position. It's the angle of the rope, which is basically useless in the technique shown. IT IS DANGEROUS!

I guess you aren't into sarcasm?

Not into sarcasm? A six year old video making the fun of the way americans belay?!?!

"Sarcastic is as sarcastic does." (Insert best Gump Southern voice)
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That is a perfectly safe belay technique.

 

This is down right stupid. Who the fuck come up with this idea of belaying like this? I see it in gyms all the time, which scares the shit out of me.

Check this video- this is from actual "climbing school"! How in the hell can someone catch an unexpected fall, if the rope is not in a braking position?

[video:youtube]v=XW2IbQtkp8Y&feature=youtu.be&noredirect=1

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I'll say it now - any belay technique with the brake hand in a "palm up" position is downright terrible. It doesn't matter whether you're using an ATC, Grigri, Cinch, Smart, or any other device I can think of* - turn your damn brake hand palm down and belay.

 

*(One minor exception - the relatively rare AlpineUp, when used to belay leader on double ropes, is probably better with a palms up technique. That's the only exception to the rule that I'm aware of.)

Edited by Jon H
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Someone should probably tell Bill Russell he is teaching it wrong. That is his voice in the background giving instruction. You'd think after nearly 40 years of climbing and 15+ years of guiding he'd know what he is doing.

 

Bob, I've got his phone number if you want to correct him on it ;)

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