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JP Peters

[TR] Dragontail - Triple Couloirs 5/11/2014

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Trip: Dragontail - Triple Couloirs


Date: 5/11/2014


Trip Report:

The weather aligned with our schedules and we were lucky enough to get up the classic line up Dragontail before it disappeared for the season. Only one other party was on route and left several hours after we did, we could see them at the top of the second couloir when we reached our bivy site.


Hidden Couloir step kicking was straight forward and quick. We soloed through the first bit of the runnels as well but set up a belay when they got too thin for fun. We belayed one full pitch plus a very short bit to just below the entrance of the second couloir. More step kicking up to the top second couloir and climbed un-roped until the snow covered slabs proved to be a little too spicy- a short quarter pitch and then un-roped to the summit.





Entrance into the Hidden Couloir



Top of Hidden Couloir



Into the Runnels



Snice Fest



From the belay in the runnels



Nearing the top of the second couloir



Joe, Jason, Rich

We had a fine time together many more climbs to come!



Mt Stuart from the summit of Dragontail


Gear Notes:

Rack: 3 bugaboos, 2 knifeblades, 1 baby angle, 4 cams up to 2’’, several nuts, two pickets, few ice screws. Used everything.


Approach Notes:

Snow starts at the turnoff for Colchuck now and is a bit sloppy given all the traffic up to the lake. We walked a large majority of the lake to just below Dtail where we bivied. I don’t think it will be safe to walk on for very much longer give the temperatures this week.

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Phin and I did this baby car to car on May 12th. WHAT A FUN CLIMB!!!! I had a HUGE smile on my face all day. We really appreciated the steps you guys put in for us :grin:

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Nice pics and glad the clouds broke for your summit. Saw you guys when we were on our way out Saturday (I was the gimpy one with the bum knee).

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