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[TR] Dragontail - Triple Couloirs 5/11/2014


JP Peters

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Trip: Dragontail - Triple Couloirs

 

Date: 5/11/2014

 

Trip Report:

The weather aligned with our schedules and we were lucky enough to get up the classic line up Dragontail before it disappeared for the season. Only one other party was on route and left several hours after we did, we could see them at the top of the second couloir when we reached our bivy site.

 

Hidden Couloir step kicking was straight forward and quick. We soloed through the first bit of the runnels as well but set up a belay when they got too thin for fun. We belayed one full pitch plus a very short bit to just below the entrance of the second couloir. More step kicking up to the top second couloir and climbed un-roped until the snow covered slabs proved to be a little too spicy- a short quarter pitch and then un-roped to the summit.

 

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Entrance into the Hidden Couloir

 

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Top of Hidden Couloir

 

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Into the Runnels

 

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Snice Fest

 

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From the belay in the runnels

 

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Nearing the top of the second couloir

 

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Joe, Jason, Rich

We had a fine time together many more climbs to come!

 

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Mt Stuart from the summit of Dragontail

 

Gear Notes:

Rack: 3 bugaboos, 2 knifeblades, 1 baby angle, 4 cams up to 2’’, several nuts, two pickets, few ice screws. Used everything.

 

Approach Notes:

Snow starts at the turnoff for Colchuck now and is a bit sloppy given all the traffic up to the lake. We walked a large majority of the lake to just below Dtail where we bivied. I don’t think it will be safe to walk on for very much longer give the temperatures this week.

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