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[TR] Lane Peak - Zipper Couloir 5/3/2014


NDrake

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Trip: Lane Peak - Zipper Couloir

 

Date: 5/3/2014

 

Trip Report:

 

photo_235.JPG

 

A late gate opening and difficulty finding a bridge got out us out later then I had hoped.  On the tour up a snowball off a tree caused a point release of slough around Theresa, covering the skin track I just made.  At the same time Jen slipped and separated her shoulder.  She skied out with a makeshift vest/sling like a champion, but needless to say it was not a good day.

 

So after the intense warming this week we had high hopes that the snow that was ready to go already had.  Theresa was back in along with Elliot.  The approach was straight forward, I toured straight up to a bridge further up the valley and no serious shenanigans were had touring (unless you count my downhill tele-split turns from the road, free your heel, break your face).

 

There was evidence of wet slides during the week, but not nearly as much or as destructive as I expected for how hot it had been.  Lovers Lane definitely got narrower though.

 

Theresa and Elliot made it up to the col with no difficulty.  Being stubborn I tried in vain to tour up a narrow section that went over 35 degrees and had a collapsed section to waterfall.  It ended up with me boot packing eventually for 20 feet.  Stupid waterfall ruining my bragging rights.

 

Upon getting to the top of the zipper I definitely had a pucker moment, this surely couldn't be what I rode last year.  Upon peering down it was definitely the familiar line though, but with a much spicier entrance then last year.

 

There was talk about whether or not to ski it, the entrance was no wider then 1.5 ski lengths, and even though it doesn't show in photos I estimate around 50 degrees.  The snow was soft enough to have good edge hold though.  I was going for it, Theresa thought for a while and was in, Elliot knew he was capable of the line  but just was not feeling it and decided to ride out the col. 

 

I dropped first, with my axe at the ready just in case it got too icy.  I had to make up for the hundreds of jackass snowboarders that side slip every good chute in the sidecountry, no slipping, just turns.  I did have to break down and bust out the awesome 80s jump action as it was far too narrow to be on snow, but I turned damnit!  Center slide line was a tad icy, but had good hold, newer snow on the sides was a bit gloppy, but there was minimal slough.  Overall good conditions for this time of year.  No trough down the center made the going easier also.

 

Once I got below the chockstone I waited for Theresa.  She decided to take a wiser approach to the entry and got in with a series of side steps and axe self belay moves.  Once she got down I took the lower section skiers left, the right side I've normally ridden was mostly rocks. 

 

 

The apron had new wet snow that was some of the stickiest I've ever seen in my life.  At the bottom we stopped at a rock to eat lunch, just as it started to rain.  I ended up touring back out in nothing but hardshells and my underwear due to the heat and constant rain.  I love the northwest.

 

More pics

 

Gear Notes:

Left boot crampons at the base, brought an axe up.

 

Approach Notes:

Climbers descent route

Edited by NDrake
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