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[TR] Mt. Hood - North Face Right Gully 4/13/2014

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Trip: Mt. Hood - North Face Right Gully


Date: 4/13/2014


Trip Report:

Travis Holman and I climbed N Face R Gully Sunday morning. Perfect conditions except for step 2 which is bone dry. Slab rock on the left side seemed pretty easy though and had decent rock and pro to boot. We finished with a fairly direct line that topped out right on the summit... no cornice. Minimal wind, great snow, not a lot of rock or ice fall despite warm temps. Cooper Spur was easy to descend.



2nd step:



It was a blast and having wanted to do this for a while I was surprised by how short and easy the route was.


Best part of the day: sticking my head up and spooking the 7 or so people on the summit when I topped out :laf:


Also... huge fat ice flow on the left of the Eliot Glacier right now! Excellent back-up or warm-up if you're out there?!




Here is a link to my blog post with more pictures and details...


Mountain Mischief




Gear Notes:

Used: 2 screws on 1st step, 3 tricams on 2nd step, pickets and slings too.


Approach Notes:

Tilly Jane TH, no flotation necessary, descend Cooper Spur.



black spider looks gnarly right now


Edited by bedellympian

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What is your estimate of how challenging it would have been to carry skis to the top, given these conditions?

Edited by Major Major

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Major: I would say that it is very doable. My skis are old, long and heavy so I opted not to. Plus my partner was not up for skiing Cooper Spur off the summit.


Best snow conditions were in the gully itself though. Cooper was nice up high but the final half of the steep slopes were very variable and would not be that fun as you couldn't just rail it.


Someone go ski the R Gully right now! and jump the schrund too :P


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