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LFaH

Training for the New Alpinism Review and Interview

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This book is great. It describes both the theoretical and practical sides of training so you can better understand what you are trying to achieve (more than just being in "better shape") and then create a plan to fit your own goals. I recommend it highly.

 

Full review and interview with Steve House and Scott Johnston:

http://www.lightfastandhigh.com/2014/03/training-for-new-alpinism-manual-for.html

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The concepts will be very familiar if you've read up on training in other endurance contexts like running or cycling. I'd go so far say to say this book is essentially Joe Friel's "Cyclists Training Bible" but for climbers (though this is a little bit less cumbersome than that text).

 

I was surprised by Twight's mea culpa about high intensity circuit training. He basically says that he was unable to experience year over year gains on such plans, and has reverted back to a plan that favors volume. Interesting given that this style of training is very much in vogue.

 

I recall an earlier thread discussing shorter high intensity circuit style plans (a la Mountain Athlete), and John Frieh made the comment that short workouts aren't sport specific enough to prepare you for long moderate days in the mountains (though they are good for all-around conditioning). This book rhymes with that view.

Edited by jared_j

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