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In the market for new rock shoes....


bidbird

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A question for the rock gurus....

 

So I've finally come to realize that my old second hand boreal ballets don't really fit me that well. My feet are narrow and boreal's tend to be wide. As great as they are for cracks, I would like a better face climbing shoe.

 

My criteria is narrow, flat lasted and reasonably comfortable.

 

Suggestions?

 

 

 

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Try a women's model? The women's miura or katana or anasazi lv could be a good choice if you can get them big enough. Women's climbing shoes are usually just narrower (especially in the heal) versions of men's shoes and lots of guys climb in them.

 

Plus its not like you can shoe up in women's shoes and not send hard.

 

 

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zappos has a sizeable number of climbing shoes and free returns, so you could do that to find a shoe you like.

 

I agree about La Sportiva being narrow. in contrary to the above comment, I find five-ten shoes are wide in my experience.

 

If you're looking to keep your feet flat, you'll probably end up with mythos or TC Pro.

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Scarpa Techno has worked well for me, flat lasted and a little stiffer than the Mythos (which I think are way softer than your Boreals). I wouldn't say my feet are especially narrow but I have noticed several shoes seem to wide on me so maybe I'm on the narrow side of the spectrum. I haven't tried the new Techno X which they just put out though.

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I also have long narrow-ish feet and love the Technos! They are a great all-arounder, but quite good for face. If you can find a pair (few of old version left, new version not out yet), be aware they don't stretch much at all, so don't fit them much tighter than how you want them to end up. I've got a used pair that might work for an 11.5.

 

Agree that Sportivas are usually a good choice, 5.10s not so much...

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