Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
mkschuster

[TR] Niobe peak, Tantalus range, Squamish BC - North face, North East ridge 2/8/2014

Recommended Posts

Trip: Niobe peak, Tantalus range, Squamish BC - North face, North East ridge

 

Date: 2/8/2014

 

Trip Report:

Winter Ascent of the North face of Niobe peak and moved over to the col to then follow the ridge to the summit. Very cold temps and great weather window. Here is a video that was made about it.

check it out:

Enjoy!

 

 

Gear Notes:

2 7cm ice screws, few cams (nothing bigger than a BD size 1), nuts of all sizes and a couple hexes.

 

Approach Notes:

Crossed the Squamish river via cable and hiked up to lake lovely water. Skinned up to Niobe meadows to approach the bottom of the face.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Great work! I was thinking about that face during that last window, stoked to hear someone got on it. The Tantalus is magic, especially in winter condish. Its not often you get such conditions on the coast either. Bomber up high, dry approach.

I was on the NF of sky pilot and found similar conditions, got the barfies real bad too. Good one boys!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Stellar climb!!! Nice work hauling the sticks up and over for what looked like an amazing trip.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

AFAIK that's the FWA of the NE ridge. Despite the north face comment in the title, this is very similar in line to the original (1960) summer route up the NE ridge.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wow! Very cool - well done - looks like some entertaining sections, especially with skis on your backs! And excellent to see the adventure on video. It's great to see a few folk got out in that stellar settled weather to do stuff.

Btw, Drew, re: your comment about this line vs the 1960 line, it's been about 30 years since I climbed the NE ridge so my memory isn't exactly fresh, but I'm sure we didn't traverse anywhere near as far right, nor reach the ridge as high, as this party.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
.

Btw, Drew, re: your comment about this line vs the 1960 line, it's been about 30 years since I climbed the NE ridge so my memory isn't exactly fresh, but I'm sure we didn't traverse anywhere near as far right, nor reach the ridge as high, as this party.

 

The Fairley guide suggests climbing as high as the base of the north rib before moving left to gain the NE ridge at the notch, which is similar to what this party did. The Culbert guide shows the line joining the rib at the lower snowpatch. It's doubtless been done both ways multiple times, not to mention starting by climbing directly through the steep lower bluffs rather than outflanking them, which I recall once took a VOC party several hours.

 

I would term any of these ascents as an ascent of the NE ridge.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×