Jump to content

[TR] Niobe peak, Tantalus range, Squamish BC - North face, North East ridge 2/8/2014


mkschuster

Recommended Posts

Trip: Niobe peak, Tantalus range, Squamish BC - North face, North East ridge

 

Date: 2/8/2014

 

Trip Report:

Winter Ascent of the North face of Niobe peak and moved over to the col to then follow the ridge to the summit. Very cold temps and great weather window. Here is a video that was made about it.

check it out:

Enjoy!

 

 

Gear Notes:

2 7cm ice screws, few cams (nothing bigger than a BD size 1), nuts of all sizes and a couple hexes.

 

Approach Notes:

Crossed the Squamish river via cable and hiked up to lake lovely water. Skinned up to Niobe meadows to approach the bottom of the face.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 8
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Great work! I was thinking about that face during that last window, stoked to hear someone got on it. The Tantalus is magic, especially in winter condish. Its not often you get such conditions on the coast either. Bomber up high, dry approach.

I was on the NF of sky pilot and found similar conditions, got the barfies real bad too. Good one boys!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wow! Very cool - well done - looks like some entertaining sections, especially with skis on your backs! And excellent to see the adventure on video. It's great to see a few folk got out in that stellar settled weather to do stuff.

Btw, Drew, re: your comment about this line vs the 1960 line, it's been about 30 years since I climbed the NE ridge so my memory isn't exactly fresh, but I'm sure we didn't traverse anywhere near as far right, nor reach the ridge as high, as this party.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

.

Btw, Drew, re: your comment about this line vs the 1960 line, it's been about 30 years since I climbed the NE ridge so my memory isn't exactly fresh, but I'm sure we didn't traverse anywhere near as far right, nor reach the ridge as high, as this party.

 

The Fairley guide suggests climbing as high as the base of the north rib before moving left to gain the NE ridge at the notch, which is similar to what this party did. The Culbert guide shows the line joining the rib at the lower snowpatch. It's doubtless been done both ways multiple times, not to mention starting by climbing directly through the steep lower bluffs rather than outflanking them, which I recall once took a VOC party several hours.

 

I would term any of these ascents as an ascent of the NE ridge.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




×
×
  • Create New...