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jibby

Zeke's Wall Routes

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While taking a break from bouldering on Green Goblin a few friends and I hiked all the way up to the wall and were surprised to see two bolted lines and two fixed ropes. Anyone know the names or grades?

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looking at the description for Flow, it lists the stats for pitch 1 as...

 

P1: **** 5.11- PD, 1x + gear, 30m

 

What's the "PD" mean?

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Maybe....

 

Alpine System:

 

The overall seriousness of the complete route based on all factors of the final approach, ascent and descent including length, altitude, danger, commitment, and technical difficulty. This system originated with UIAA Roman numerals; it is now generally seen with French letters and is increasingly being used worldwide.

 

F: Facile/easy. Rock scrambling or easy snow slopes; some glacier travel; often climbed ropeless except on glaciers.

PD: Peu Difficile/a little difficult. Some technical climbing and complicated glaciers.

AD: Assez Difficile/fairly hard. Steep climbing or long snow/ice slopes above 50 degrees; for experienced alpine climbers only.

D: Difficile/difficult. Sustained hard rock and/or ice or snow; fairly serious stuff.

TD: Tres Difficile/very difficult. Long, serious, remote, and highly technical.

ED: Extremement Difficile/extremely difficult. The most serious climbs with the most continuous difficulties. Increasing levels of difficuly indicated by ED1, ED2, etc.

Edited by max

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I think it just means you have to fiddle with the protection a bit. That said the pro seemed fine on p1. The cracks in some places are more like grooves or breaks in the patina. I would not.plan on climbing flow this time of year. It's a really fun route. P1 alone is worth the hike.

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Protection difficult

 

Right -- there is a Protection Difficult section above the P1 bolt. Pro is bomber there (provided you bring the recommended gear), but you do need to place it from tenuous stances with gear a little below your feet.

 

The rest of the climb protects easily, although it is easy to run out of green #.75 Camalots on P4 if you're not paying attention. The #4.5 (new #5) Camalot is useful on P2 and P5 as well as on the top of P1.

 

-Eric

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