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Big Four


Ade

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well,since we are on the subject ! friend of mine and myself climbed big-4 in the summer via dry creek rte.big B. in his book tells you to go to the right on the final rock wall

( at the end of the couloir ) and it is to be class 3 climbing ?

for us it looked very shitty on the right plus there was large moat,so we went up in the middle class 4 with some class 5 moves,totaly loose stuff and we never protected.on the way down we still could not find this class 3 rte.what we found was rappel slings on the left (south ) side of the wall.

so ! is there a class 3 finish up there ? and where ?

othervise it was a nice summit and suprising snow cap.

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I also did that route this summer and had a little trouble with route finding in that same area. The Becky guide somewhat misleads you into going too far right and we did, ending up off route and having to backtrack. Instead the route goes more straight up the middle, angling slightly left once you are across the moat. It felt like 3rd class to me, but it was attention getting 3rd class. We ascended and descended without a rope. I don’t remember a lot of loose rock.

 

I agree it was a nice summit and an enjoyable climb for a quick one day outing. Looking though the register I was surprised by how seldom it gets climbed.

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