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fgw

[TR] Mexico Road Trip - a few 1/6/2014

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Trip: Mexico Road Trip - a few

 

Date: 1/6/2014

 

Trip Report:

Having done two trips to El Potrero Chico in the last two years, we’ve always wondered what other multi-pitch fun could be found in Mexico. Two weeks ago we got a bit of a sampling. A ten day road trip through central and northern Mexico. Historic pueblos magicos, military convoys, shitty weather, bloody car wrecks, tequila, good friends and some multi-pitch climbing including new (for us) areas and a touch of the good old El Potrero Chico.

 

Oregon’s Menagerie? No – central Mexico’s Parque Nacional El Chico. A four pitch affair on the sunny first (and last) day:

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Same formation seen on the way down:

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Pueblo of Mineral del Chico in the state of Hidalgo:

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Starting up the 5-pitch (bailed after 4) Mas Alla De Las Estrellas (5.10b) on the La Tanda formation. A mix of fog and drizzle interrupted by rain. The moss sure seemed to like it though:

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Shirley arriving at our pitch 4 highpoint:

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Moving to Queretaro in search of that Mexican sunshine:

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The 350 meter Pena de Bernal towering over the rolling countryside in Queretaro:

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El jefe:

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The postcard perfect Mexico – old church at the center of Bernal:

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The Pena had some of the funnest face climbing we’ve ever done – crisp crimps for fingers and grippy facets for feet – did two 6-pitch routes (both 10-) and were wishing the place had more lines to offer:

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Shirley on Via Del Padre (5.10-):

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Shirley on the summit:

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Christmas evening in Bernal:

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After that we shot up north 700km to Hidalgo in Nuevo Leon (the “northern front”) :

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Where we met up with our friends Eric & Lucie as well as with some shitty, shitty weather (Potero Chico):

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Culo del Gato (~45min away) was wet but seemed more climbable. Hiking up to Crescent Moon Buttress (8P, 10-…the right hand skyline in photo):

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Good climbing despite the wet rock:

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But the main reason to do this route is the fun tyrolean you get to do on the descent:

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Nuevo Leon desert outside of the village of Mina:

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Day 2 in EPC stared out rainy but proved climbable after lunch. Did two short (but very fun) routes. Pepe y Lupe (3 pitch, 5.10):

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…and 4-pitch Agua de Coco (10+). Caugtht a bit of darkness on the last rappel:

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But we were not alone to be running late for tequila:

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Home cooking & tequila:

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Third day in EPC (2nd & last sunny day of the trip), we climbed Snott Girlz (7 pitch, 10+). The funnest route we’ve done in EPC!

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Some views from the route:

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6th pitch & a twisty rope

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Next day woke up to some downpours & so drove south back towards Mexico City in hopes of doing another climb in a new area…unfortunately were never really able to escape the shit weather:

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High altitude village of San Jeronimo in the state of Hidalgo:

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Instead killed off the remaining ½ day sightseeing in Mexico City including trying to see the tequila and mescal museum:

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Also saw what I can only guess was an NSA listening post disguised as a taco stand:

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More pics & words on our blog: http://chossclimbers.com/testing/mexico/mexico-road-trip/

 

 

Gear Notes:

QD's & coffee.

Edited by fgw

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Looks great! Thanks for the TR. That move around the outside corner on Snot Girlz is so fun.

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Much thanks guys! Chris, yeah Snott Girlz (the whole package) is as fun as cragging gets - every pitch was a gem :)

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Wow great storytelling, sorry about the weather though. love the layout on the blog! Text explaining the photos, and the map. Of course I am stealing it all. Thanks

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