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dr._jay

chair peak

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More pointless approach beta follows:

 

Didn't feel like running tonight so I hiked up to chair instead. Left the car at 7:10pm was at the bottom of the first pitch on the nf at 9:35pm, bulletproof all the way. The good news is it's cold up there and everything is frozen, crust and all. Had my tools and crampons with me so I made a few moves onto the ice, thick enough for stubbies for sure, maybe even a 17cm. Though secure, the ice did feel a little areated(sp?).

 

... So there I am, on ice, with tools, crampons, a descent rope in my pack, headlamp, great conditions, no wind, all the stars out, all alone, having that debate in my head, should I or shouldn't I. - Oh wait a minute, I did forget something - balls!

 

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Should be a great clusterfuck up there this weekend! Get an early start lads. Heard the mountaineers are leaving the parking lot at 5:00 AM and using all day siege tactics.

Edited by Highlander

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Considering the potential cluster at chair is there any other promising alpine ice near snoqualmie pass anybody would recomend?

 

Thanks

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That's easy. Just head up there and look around. That N. Face of Chair is pretty good because it is overall a simple and barely technical line up a somewhat imposing face, but all you have to do is head up there and pick a gully and start climbing and I am sure you will find something. Bring a pair of binoculars and scope it out as best you can, and then be prepared to find out that you may have made a bad choice. But it is really that easy.

 

With recent warm temps, there may not be a lot of ice but there will certainly be a lot of steep snow climbs that could provide plenty of entertainment and I am sure it is there too if ice is what you want.

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Chair was good climbing yesterday but I wouldn't go near that place on Saturday! There were quite a few people yesterday. Tomorrow will be a mad house!

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Franklin Falls - bring a snorkel

NE slab tooth - bring some skill

NY gully - bring some mojo

Upper International - bring good skis

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Mattp, as an alpine gumby, what is the NE Buttress like? I remeber somebody saying that it is less technical than the N. face.

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Cracked - the buttress can be less technical than the N. Face, but I bet that it was more technical than the N. Face when Ray climbed it a couple weeks ago. Now? I don't know. I haven't been up there for a year or two.

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Thanks, I guess I find all I need to know tomorrow. Sure, I'll be a circus, we'll just have to leave early. I guess I'll see a lot of you guys up there. Climb safe!

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Here's the NOAA weather forecast for Snoqualmie Pass on Saturday:

 

SATURDAY...VERY STORMY... A STRONG CHANCE OF THUNDER, LIGHTNING, HIGH WINDS, EXTREME AVALANCHE CONDITIONS, AND HEAVY RAINS... SNOW LEVEL 7000 FEET...WITH UP TO 3 INCHES NEW LIQUID PRECIPITATION. AFTERNOON PASS TEMPERATURES 50 TO 55. WIND IN THE PASSES AND FOOTHILLS EAST 45 TO 55 MPH. STAY AWAY AT ALL COSTS. CLIMBERS SHOULD GO TO EXIT 38 INSTEAD.

 

grin.gif

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I heard from a friend of a friend who said that his friend told him that his partners ex-girlfriends brothers freind went up there and said the ice was too thin. Then again...he was also a friend of Scot'teryx...so take report that with a grain of salt. cantfocus.gif

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It's looking like the weather won't be good until Wednesday. The report calls for "moderate" precip through Tuesday. It may be necessary to wait until after then to allow for the snow to consolidate. The good news is steadily lowering snow levels from Sunday to Tuesday.

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