Jump to content

[TR] Chair Peak - NE Buttress/ Northeast Buttress 12/28/2013


jennecarter

Recommended Posts

Trip: Chair Peak - NE Buttress/ Northeast Buttress

 

Date: 12/28/2013

 

Trip Report:

Great day on Chair Peak. We started out at Alpental a little before 7am. Reached the summit probably around 3:30, beautiful sunset from up there! Got to the the 2nd rap station at around dark and back at the cars around 8pm. We did the route in 4 long pitches on 60 m ropes. Simu-climbing at the end/ start of the 1st, 2nd, and 4th pitches. In hindsight, we felt the "crux" was the 1st pitch with unconsolidated snow over rock on the traverse section. Protected that with a piton (also a fixed pin on that pitch before traverse). The 3rd/ "waterfall" pitch wasn't bad at all in it's current formation. Picked out and not overhanging with a great belay anchor of fixed pins. Overall, the protection was really good. Thanks Damien, Tristan and Allie for the fabulous teamwork. I learned a ton (as I do on every climb) and had fun.

 

One of my partners dropped his camera over the waterfall. If you happen to find it, please email me at jennecarter@gmail.com. Thanks!

 

Gear Notes:

Rack: We needed/ used: 4 pitons, 3 pickets (the pickets placed well in the snow possibly could have used 1 more), 2 short screws (ice not great for screws but we found a couple of spots), and 3 small cams. Found 4 fixed pins, a slung boulder and plenty of trees/ scrub trees to use.

 

No floatation needed.

 

60 half ropes / double rope rappel

 

Approach Notes:

Crampons from the parking lot. We hiked the summer trail/ snow lake trail but heard from others that the winter trail is also fine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 5
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




×
×
  • Create New...