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[TR] Chair Peak - NE Buttress/ Northeast Buttress 12/28/2013


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Trip: Chair Peak - NE Buttress/ Northeast Buttress


Date: 12/28/2013


Trip Report:

Great day on Chair Peak. We started out at Alpental a little before 7am. Reached the summit probably around 3:30, beautiful sunset from up there! Got to the the 2nd rap station at around dark and back at the cars around 8pm. We did the route in 4 long pitches on 60 m ropes. Simu-climbing at the end/ start of the 1st, 2nd, and 4th pitches. In hindsight, we felt the "crux" was the 1st pitch with unconsolidated snow over rock on the traverse section. Protected that with a piton (also a fixed pin on that pitch before traverse). The 3rd/ "waterfall" pitch wasn't bad at all in it's current formation. Picked out and not overhanging with a great belay anchor of fixed pins. Overall, the protection was really good. Thanks Damien, Tristan and Allie for the fabulous teamwork. I learned a ton (as I do on every climb) and had fun.


One of my partners dropped his camera over the waterfall. If you happen to find it, please email me at jennecarter@gmail.com. Thanks!


Gear Notes:

Rack: We needed/ used: 4 pitons, 3 pickets (the pickets placed well in the snow possibly could have used 1 more), 2 short screws (ice not great for screws but we found a couple of spots), and 3 small cams. Found 4 fixed pins, a slung boulder and plenty of trees/ scrub trees to use.


No floatation needed.


60 half ropes / double rope rappel


Approach Notes:

Crampons from the parking lot. We hiked the summer trail/ snow lake trail but heard from others that the winter trail is also fine.

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