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Climzalot

Ruth Gorge and AK Range

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Planning a trip to the Ruth and other nearby parts of the range and from the feedback I have gotten so far I am looking at trip dates of April 15-May 15. Looking to climb Mooses Tooth Couloir, Peak 11,300 SW ridge, and maybe a route on Dickey. Does anybody have any feedback on this time frame for ice routes in this area. Typically a little earlier is better for the ice in the Ruth whereas the season for Denali is a bit later. Any feedback? Personal experience with these routes?

 

On a related note, does anyone have info on the big gully to the right of U. Stecks Blood From Stone route and to the left of the ___?wine?_____ Buttress on Dickey? Looks like a nice line from the air but no one has climbed it? Why come?

 

Thanks

 

cgentzel@aai.cc

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As for the couloir on Dickey: It was attempted by Cordes and DeCapio in May of 2000. The route looked completely in from the ground. They crossed the bergschrund, then did one pitch of near vertical white china with no pro. I think it was Kelly, who downclimbed the entire pitch because there was no anchor. So what appeared to be good ice from a distance, was just vertical snow. They later learned that the entire gulley system is threatened by a, quote "Walmart sized hanger". The line is absolutely stunning- a 5000 ft. ribbon, but will require some real vision to accomplish.

 

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Outstanding. Thanks for the pic. Do you know if Scott is around for ice climbing this time of year and if so where? I am guessing Kelly is in CO. I should get ahold of those fellers to pick their brains a bit. Do you know what time of year they were in there? Last I heard was their trip two years ago. With the conditions you described maybe this should be one of those late season routes like the one House did on the Mooses Tooth one September. Just a thought. Worth looking at anyway. She looks like a beauty.

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As for the couloir on Dickey: It was attempted by Cordes and DeCapio in May of 2000. The route looked completely in from the ground. They crossed the bergschrund, then did one pitch of near vertical white china with no pro. I think it was Kelly, who downclimbed the entire pitch because there was no anchor. So what appeared to be good ice from a distance, was just vertical snow. They later learned that the entire gulley system is threatened by a, quote "Walmart sized hanger". The line is absolutely stunning- a 5000 ft. ribbon, but will require some real vision to accomplish.

 

 

Climzalot. I watched them do what was just described and was with them during most of that trip (the one in which Seth Shaw died). Anyway I may be able to help you out w/some info.

 

Here's a line Cory and I did to keep you interested...you may notice he forgot his helmet (aka miles smart on Eldo)

 

136green_eggs_1-med.jpg

 

p.s. Chicago sucks ass, I'm going to Banff tomorrow hot dogs or not! Couldn't resist spraying.

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smile.gif That's pretty funny, and a little creepy. I'm actually on the left in the red blurry jacket.

 

Who be ye?

Were you the dude who gave us the Ron Rico Rum?? Cory?? Scott?? Kelly?? God??

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Anyone have some info on "shaken not stirred" on the mooses tooth. Scoped the AAJ already and have read route descriptions. How did it look when you were there Layton.

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Looked fine, but it wasn't in. The snow conditions were pretty crappy that month. It's just before Ham and Eggs, same approach. Go into the coulior and climb up it. Probably descend ham and eggs if you can find it on top. Try n' get Paul to fly you to the glacier below the route and save some sloggin (although there are some fun pitches on the approach).

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I was thinking about that whole getting dropped off below the route thing and I wasnt sure how that would work with 3 weeks worth of food and gear. I was thinking it would make more sense to drop our stuff on the main landing area, maybe near Dickey, and then carry a few days worth of stuff up to the nice spot below the route and camp for a couple. Correct me if I am wrong but it would suck to have to descend from the upper glacier with all that gear in tow. Where are you at right now anyway Mr. Layton.

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I'm at the B'ham library checking the weather.

Yes, it would be the suckiest to have to descend that approach w/tons of shit. In fact it would be quite dangerous.

 

Cory and I (after we gave up on 5 separate attempts b/c of avy) brought a tent shell, 1/2 a copy of dune (the 2nd 1/2), and a bottle of sleeping pills up there the final assault. We wore all of our clothes and took some Melatonin and waited 2 days w/o bags for the route to stop avalanching!

If I were you I'd bring bivy gear up there and if it craps out, bury you shit and go back to base. Next clear spell, carry some extra food and try it from base camp. If it craps out you'll have a tent +/or bags to crash in. Repeat ad nauseum.

Every time the weather cleared we climbed up to below the route just to have it crap out again (5 times). That's why I suggested to be flown up there during the good weather so you can get it while it's in.

 

Scott and Kelly sent it from the Ruth Glacier and back in 8 hours!!!!

 

Below Dickey is a great basecamp. Check out Grandess Asses on London Tower. Also the NW shoulder of Bradley looked good. There's a rock line on Dickey that may go too. I'll show you. As for Peak 12,???? that Steve House likes so much, I never checked it out. Looks fun from the photos.

Good bouldering below the mooses tooth.

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I did Ham and Eggs last April, and conditions were excellent. From what I've heard that route and Shaken are best done early season. Some people (in AK) have told me that Ham and Eggs can be out of condition by mid-May. I guess alot depends on the particular year though. Have fun up there.

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Mid may probably should be ok. if weather is like it was last year it might not be. i was in littte switzerland the end of may last year and there was no possibility of ice/snow climbing. some folks came over from the ruth becuase ham and eggs and shaken not stirred were "waterfalls". oh and don't forget about the million other climbing options if your targeted routes aren't in.

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Excellent. Thanks for the info guys. Colby Coombs told me that June-July are better for Peak 11,300 but Steve H and Paul at TAT say winter and spring conditions are best and April-early May would be about right. Any feedback here?

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