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Eric K

Favorite Solos

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What are your favorite routes to solo in the cascades. I know everyones abilities are different so I am not looking for the easiest routes in the cascades. I am more interested in routes that have less loose rock or other objective hazards that you think were fun safe solos. I will start,

 

Spontaneity Arete at WA pass was really pretty safe and fun. Just enough exposure and an easy walk.

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not alpine, but close and very fun: beacon rock's south east corner - 5 pitches of easy 5th

 

i soloed vesper a few years ago and enjoyed it and it wasn't too harebrained, w/ the exception perhaps of the first few feet off the ground :)

 

forbidden of course would be good, dragontail's serpentine arete too, north ridge of stuart if you're confident

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Done a lot, but I keep going back to the west ridge of the North Twin Sister(Washington version). Olivine love, decent exposure, and quality summit views from a unique perspective. Only downer is the soul crushing road hike/bike.

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Lincoln Peak actually turned out to be quite enjoyable in good conditions (June 15 of this past year). The approach road...well...drive someone else's car and bring a saw.

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For climbers of modest abilities and limited risk threshhold the Twin Sisters Range is great. Solid, grippy rock with big exposure on easy terrain. The linkup described below was the most enjoyable day of traveling alone that I've ever had.

 

Green Creek Glacier Area

 

 

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Would the Stoddard buttress on Terror be a good solo? The length/effort to do that C2C in a day would be really awesome. Going over the otto-himmel col could be interesting without a rope... I've never climbed on that side of the fence, if the rock is solid I can't think of a better location.

 

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The FA was a solo, but you probably knew that.

 

Early season you could certainly down climb from the col sans rap, and the descent from the west ridge would go without a rope as well. If you are comfortable soloing around 5.8 with some looseness and are good at route finding, it might be a good solo for you. You are right that the setting is hard to beat. The rock isn't seriously loose, but it isn't Sierra granite either. That would be an amazing feat C2C!

 

I'm guessing 14-18 hours of pretty serious effort?

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i have little experience soling and a low tolerance for risk.

 

The Tooth would be my boldest moment.

 

I'VE DONE IT IN THE DARK PANSY.

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oh. i thought is was about soiling. you know, your shorts. sorry for the thread drift.

 

my second favorite is Coach's Crack, but the last time I solo'd that test piece it didn't end well for me.

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south face ingals peak midweek. hundreds of thousands of climbers have pulled on it enough that all the loose stuff is gone.

 

starting with the "classics" is a good start if you want no loose rocks.

 

R and D in the icicle may be a good solo. I think the cruxes have a good hand crack for portable belays

 

I feel weird giving solo suggestions. the moral liability.

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Would the Stoddard buttress on Terror be a good solo? The length/effort to do that C2C in a day would be really awesome. Going over the otto-himmel col could be interesting without a rope... I've never climbed on that side of the fence, if the rock is solid I can't think of a better location.

 

Yes it would be a good solo, but have a rope for the crux, it is a little insecure.

 

I was going to chime in the the uber remote multi-day test pieces, even more fun if it is a new route. Scary yes, but rewarding as heck if you make it out in 1 piece.

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The FA was a solo, but you probably knew that.

 

Early season you could certainly down climb from the col sans rap, and the descent from the west ridge would go without a rope as well. If you are comfortable soloing around 5.8 with some looseness and are good at route finding, it might be a good solo for you. You are right that the setting is hard to beat. The rock isn't seriously loose, but it isn't Sierra granite either. That would be an amazing feat C2C!

 

I'm guessing 14-18 hours of pretty serious effort?

 

I haven't given it much thought, but yeah, probably in that ballpark for time. The crux would be not fucking up the approach in the dark! We'll see if I end up in WA this summer (Plans now are for CA and CO) but it's on my radar. Long days where you cover a massive amount of ground are so much fun.

 

Wanye, if you wanted to share some potential picket solo FA's I'm all ears.

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I haven't given it much thought, but yeah, probably in that ballpark for time. The crux would be not fucking up the approach in the dark! We'll see if I end up in WA this summer (Plans now are for CA and CO) but it's on my radar. Long days where you cover a massive amount of ground are so much fun.

 

I once set out to try to do that in a day. Long story short, I messed up the approach in the dark, and ended up going up Degenhardt instead. Pretty sure my knees don't have many days like that left in them.

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I feel weird giving solo suggestions. the moral liability.

the willis wall! extra points for skiing back down it :)

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not alpine, but close and very fun: beacon rock's south east corner - 5 pitches of easy 5th

Unless your uber confident in your solo skills, a primer roped ascent would be prudent on this one. At least on the first two pitches. (IMO)

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Not hard to do, but fun and great scenery...Southwest couloir of South Early Winters Spire, Sahale Peak, Magic, and Pinnacle all come to mind.

 

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