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ajpederson

[TR] Lane Peak - The Zipper 11/23/2013

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Trip: Lane Peak - The Zipper

 

Date: 11/23/2013

 

Trip Report:

A group of us headed up The Zipper on Lane Peak. With the warming and freezing the last few days we were thinking we'd find some good snow and ice for climbing, and we weren't disappointed. We drove down and got to the gate just after its opening at 9. We packed up quickly and got on the trail.

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Great view of Rainier.

 

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Hiking the road.

 

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Approaching Lane.

 

The last bit of climbing up to the base of the route had slid some time during the warming of the last week and was more like climbing a boulder field of ice than snow climbing. Once at the base of the route we roped up and were on our way. The first part of The Zipper had great firm snow and a few fun little ice steps.

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Field of ice boulders.

 

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Looking up the start.

 

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One of the little ice steps.

 

About half way in we found the crux of the route. It was a thin little bit of ice around to the right of a large chock stone followed by a little squeeze between a couple more rocks. The snow above the ice held great tool sticks and made pulling through this part easier than it looked.

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Looking up the crux.

 

Once we were above the crux section the rest of the route was firm snow.

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Sara leading to the top.

 

Once at the top of The Zipper, Luke and I headed down so I could run him up to Paradise so he could skin up to Muir and sleep in the hut. The other 4 in the group headed for the summit along with 2 others that followed us up the route. The route up to the summit was thinner soft snow in the sun and they did a double rope rappel to get back down the gulley.

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Approaching the summit.

 

The descent was a little thin over a little stream going down the gulley to the valley floor.

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Heading down.

 

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Sunset.

 

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Glowing Rainier.

 

It was a great day to get out and really fun to get some steep snow and ice in this early in the winter with a great group of friends.

 

*All pictures from Alicia and Sara.

 

Gear Notes:

Used a couple pickets and some small rock gear. Could maybe find a spot for a short screw if you looked hard.

 

Approach Notes:

Good firm snow, no flotation needed.

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Thanks for posting the photos of the fun ice section! Glad you guys had fun too.

 

I ended up at Muir around 7 pm - a rad way to finish out a day of climbing!

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Would probably still be pretty fun right now, but the snow in the forecast could turn it into just a snow climb. Luckily, Lover's Lane is right next door if The Zipper has too much snow.

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