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Peter_Puget

Moves

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I've been working way too much and CC.com has been low on good rock talk. Hopefully this will be my last weekend working for a while so I've been getting psyched about climbing and the thread on local sport climbing made me remember how many climbs at Index are really defined by a move or two. For example the final reach on Godzilla always makes me smile as does the second crux on p1 Jap. Gardens although I prefer the final reach on p2 - kind of a harder Godzillla.

 

Other faves are:

 

High step last crux on Big Science

 

Layback over the roof on Domestic Violence

 

The traverse step crux on the last pitch of Tempitchuous

 

The move around the roof on the Lizard route.

 

Chimney/stem move or two on Narrow Arrow Overhang first pitch.

 

I know it's not at Index but standing on the arête of that popular route at Spring Mountain is as good as a move gets too.

 

 

Edited by Peter_Puget

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the longish reach right when leaving the first flake part on princely ambitions, before the mantle is top notch.

 

The crux moves on terminal preppy are incredible, left foot on a minuscule sloping hold and a toss up whether or not I'm gonna come off. Still need to lead that one, gotta buy a new pair of TC pros first though...

 

 

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The Mistral was howling all weekend here in southern France. No climbing, the frenchies I've been getting out with don't like to climb when it's cold! A day at Index would be great!

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I like the Index choices -- will have to try that one you mentioned on Tempitchuous.

 

Others:

 

The pinch-layback move on the roof when one is getting into the crack on Deal With it Ranger (LTW, also part of Natural log cabin).

 

The "falling-timber" move before reaching the crack on I am in Top a Shader (Private Idaho).

 

Every move on Wet Dream (Private Idaho).

 

Cranking up to get that first finger-lock on Slow Children.

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Those falling type Index moves drove me crazy. I thought of mentioning the traverse move on Model worker as being on of my least favorite moves. But you got me thinking of finger cracks and so......

 

Reaching the bomber hand jam after the ring jam/ thin hand section on Pressure Drop is awesome!

 

That roof move by the old kb on deal is great too!

Edited by Peter_Puget

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The reach to the good horizontal hold after the dihedral on natural log cabin

 

the crux back smearing move and the thin crack top out of terminal preppie

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Finding the thank God hold above the second roof on the last pitch of Heaven's Gate.

BTW, this was taken today. Upper town wall is great right now. Get some!

IMG_53412.JPG

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